1933 Buick 60 Series parts wanted

[pint4]

Does anyone have any parts for 1933 Buick such as coil, manuals, water pump or kit, middle section of exhaust manifold?

Thanks.

Bob

[Fred Rawling]

The water pump kit is available from bobsautomobilia.com. You will have to ream the bushing after you press it in or take it to a machine shop to have it done. The rest of the rebuild is easy. Modern 6 volt coils from the auto parts store will work fine.

Fred

[pint4]

Fred,

Thanks for the leads and the assembly tip! I am told that someone is reproducing that center section of the exhaust manifold. Now the search is on to find out who and if they are still doing it. I haven't taken it apart yet' I wonder if there are gaskets between each of the sections.

Thanks again.

Bob

[Fred Rawling]

About 10 years ago I got together with 2 other BCA members and we made the center section for the 80 and 90 series cars. I still have the core box and one unmachined center section.

Unfortunatly they will not fit the 60 series I do have a set of end pieces for the 60 series manifold should you need them.

[Fred Rawling]

There are no gaskets between the 3 pieces of the exhaust manifold. When you assemble them, put some graphite grease on the ends when you slip them together. If you do not have to take them apart, I would recomend just removing the 3 pieces as one unit.

[pint4]

Fred,

What is involved with casting a new center section for a 33 Buick Model 60? Maybe it's something I should look into. If I did, I would most likely cast some extras similar to what you did? Did you use your old one for a pattern or did you work off engineering drawings? I drove my 33 this weekend and it sounded like a dozen Harley Davidson's coming down the road. Hard to carry on any conversation not to mention everyone within site staring at me as I drove by. I've got to believe someone has center section sitting around somewhere so I'm still hoping to hear from someone who has one for sale.

Thanks.

Bob

[Fred Rawling]

Bob,

I took the old one to pattern maker. He made a pattern and core box for us.

Then I found a foundry to do the casting. The material used was crass iron with either 2% or 3% nickel. If you get that far, I will look it up for you.

We made the ends larger on the outside for extra strength and the inside diameter smaller to allow for machining. Machining was the most expensive part of it as they needed to have a jig set up to do the different angles on the manifold. The machinest will probably need a cylinder head and heat riser to make the set up. It all has to fit together. Also, unknown to me at the time, they took out the door for the heat control flapper shaft. I am talking about the flapper in the manifold to control the heat through the heat riser. Talking to old time mechenics, they said that the best fix was to eliminate the flapper. On mine, they eliminated the flapper and the external cover that the flapper shaft goes through. The result is that it does not look original on the outside. I would rather that they cast it with the opening and cast the cover seperate with no hole in the cover for the flapper shaft so that it would look more original on the outside and allow for anyone who wanted to put in the shaft for an authentic look to do so.

The car runs great without the flapper. I took the car to the national in Phoenix. I was doing 65 mph in the middle of the day in the summer. I guess it was around 100 degrees outside. The car was running at 180 degrees.

On the 90 series, the manifold fits 1933 to 1935. The main difference is that on 34 and 35 centers, there are some fins on the back side of the center section. I guess they knew in 1933 that there was too much heat there and wanted extra cooling. I would recommend using a 34 or 35 center for a pattern.

I think that the mould and core box cost around $2,700.00; the casting was $33.00 each and the maching around $750.00 each.

Jerry Washburn in the San Francisco Bay area found the pattern maker and did the machining. I found the foundry.

I think that the first place to start is to get an estimate from a machinest. Also, find a machinest who will take on the job. They may also guide you to a pattern maker.

The best way to correspond with me is frawling@bristolhomeloans.com.

I check that e-mail usually several times a day. I do not always get to this sight that often.

Fred