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brakes pedal gets less travel as you drive


tbirdman

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I have a 64 Thunderbird, drums all around. The brake pedal starts out normal and then as I drive it the pedal travel distance keeps shrinking until I have almost no travel. After the car sits a while (over 2 hours) the pedal travel is back to where it was. brakes were actually looking up until I adjusted the piston length on the booster, however, I don't think the pedal travel should change as you drive the car.

I have made sure that the booster piston is not touching the MC when installed. I have the booster tested good, new MC, new flex lines in front, rear flex line was replaced last year. All new SS lines last year. I have replaced the wheel cylinders in the rear and will do the front tomorrow.

Any ideas?

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Guest Randy Berger

It sounds like the brake fluid is not being allowed to return to the reservoir in a quantity enough to completely release the brakes. When the pedal is released the MC piston should come back far enough to uncover a port or open a valve allowing the fluid to re-enter the MC reservoir. I'm not sure how the MC and its parts function in the Ford power brake system but I think your MC is at fault. Is this a new master Cylinder? If so and it has not performed as it should, take it back and get another. If you rebuilt it yourself, review all the steps you made when rebuilding.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Back the adjustment on the shaft up and you will probably resolve your problem. As stated in an earlier post, you need to uncover the bleed hole </div></div>

I have adjusted the shaft pretty much where it's not touching the MC when at rest. I put a little grease on the tip of shaft to make sure the shaft was not touching the MC at all whne I assembled it.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Back the adjustment on the shaft up and you will probably resolve your problem. As stated in an earlier post, you need to uncover the bleed hole </div></div>

I have adjusted the shaft pretty much where it's not touching the MC when at rest. I put a little grease on the tip of shaft to make sure the shaft was not touching the MC at all whne I assembled it. </div></div>

OK well I backed it off about two more turns and I bet you can guess - no problems. I don't have much adjustment left on the shaft and I can't figure out why this manifested itself over the winter, but the brakes work great now. So my motto now, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

I guess I'll say it before you do..."I told you so" <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Glad you found the problem and then came back and reported the solution - Thanks! </div></div>

I hope by posting the solution, I'll help somebody else find the solution cheaper and faster, but thanks to those who tried to help. All advice is appreciated.

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  • 3 weeks later...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Glad you found the problem and then came back and reported the solution - Thanks! </div></div>

I hope by posting the solution, I'll help somebody else find the solution cheaper and faster, but thanks to those who tried to help. All advice is appreciated. </div></div>

Happy to report, just got back from a 1500 mile trip in the mountains and not a single oz of problem with those brakes <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Thanks again.

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