Guest rwolf Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 Could someone please tell me the easiest way to remove the water pump on this '24 4cyl? Do I have to first remove the starter/generator? The car was overheating and I found some leaks in the radiator so it is in the radiator shop. I have excellent flow through the engine when I use a garden hose but the pump will not pick up any water from a bucket at the lower level of the radiator. I wonder if this is a real pump or just something to slosh around some water? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 It is a real pump that will circulate water only when you have it set up with a flooded suction. (I once made a living selling pumps.) Some pumps are self priming and others need to have the suction flooded to pump anything. Your Buick pump will not lift water until it is fully primed with a flooded suction like it is when it is hooked up to the bottom of the radiator. Mark Shaw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rwolf Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 The water in the bucket was below the level of the pump. I even blew water into the hose to the pump with a garden hose in the bucket. However , this may not have been sufficient to flood the pump. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old_truck_nut Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 Robert,If you still want to remove the water pump, you're correct, you must remove the starter / gernerator first. Find the tapered pin (#4 X 1-1/4)in the shaft between the water pump and the strater / gernerator. Determine which way the taper is going and drive out the pin. Remove the 2 screws holding the retainer plate and then slide the generator coupeling forward for clearance. Disconnect wires and three bolts undernieth and the s/g should rotate out. The water pump can then be pulled straight back after removing 3 bolts and the hoses. I can post a photo or 2 of this that I took a few weeks ago when I did mine.Pay attention to the pump gear and the cam gear relationship. If it dosn't go back as it was, you'll have to re-time the distributor. Not hard to do, if necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rwolf Posted June 25, 2006 Share Posted June 25, 2006 Thanks for the info, any fotos you could provide I'm sure would help. I've already removed a screw in the collar near the s/g . I assumed the shaft could be removed here but wasn't sure how. I've also slid back the housing on the pump to inspect the impeller. It seems rusted but not broken.It also appears to have too much tolerance to really create enough suction to pick up water. If this is the way it was designed I can understand the previous post saying I needed the head pressure of the water level in the radiator to flood the pump. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted June 26, 2006 Share Posted June 26, 2006 For best pump performance, you may have to shim the shaft to make the impeller run close to the voloute (the snail shaped part). If the shaft has been shortened for any reason, it could reduce the flow. The closer the fit, the better the flow. Mark Shaw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now