"Current E063"

[Guest]

My car says I have an electrical problem, and I checked the ECM screen and it says:<P>E063 Current<BR>E063 History<BR>B448 History<BR>C331 History<BR>C339 History<BR>C553 History<P>I was just wondering if ANYONE knew ECM codes and could tell me what they mean.<P>Mike/EdgeCrusher<BR>

[Barney Eaton]

You did not mention the year of your car, but from the '88 manual.......<P>E063 Current= EGR Flow Problem -small<BR>E063 History=<BR>B448 History=Low refrigerant Pressure<BR>C331 History=?<BR>C339 History=?<BR> C553 History

[Guest]

I looked in several sorces and I couldn't find an explination for C codes. In general it's:<BR>E codes are for the engine<BR>B codes are for the body<BR>R codes are for the air bag<BR>ABS codes don't have a prefix<P>The only codes that went that high (553) was body codes. Under body codes my manual lists some C codes. All the C codes have to do with the CRT. <P>My guess C=CRT Codes <P>The first two of your C codes I did not find a match. <P>Under body code B553 for a 89 Reatta it lists the code in my book also as C553.<P>Code B553/C553 CRT Keep Alive Memory Error<P>The code is set if CRT keep alive memory drops below 8v at terminal C1.<BR>Possable:<BR>Faulty Charging/Strating System<BR>Extreme cold<BR>Jump Starting<P>It was a history code. I would make a note of the codes then clear them. See what happens. <P>Tom<P>

[Guest rong]

The missing codes are:<BR>C331 - Tape deck problem<BR>C339 - Loss of radio data<BR>C553 - CRTC Memory Reset Indicator<P>There is no telltale light or message for these codes. <P>Like Tom said, reset them all and see what returns.<P>Good Luck,

[Guest]

Thanks guys. I guess I'll clear them and see what it does. The radio ones I guess make sense, since I did disconnect my tapedeck (because it wasn't working) and installed an FM modulated CD changer. one thing, what is an/the EGR flow??<P>Mike/EdgeCrusher

[Guest]

A EGR flow code means the ECM is not sencing enough of a change when the EGR valve is operating. The ECM will test the EGR while driving and look for a leaner exhaust O2 reading among other things. The whole point of this code is mainly for emmision reasons. If the valve was disabled or bad the light would come on. If a failure of the emmision system happens the light comes on. It was some kind of EPA law I herd. <P>In your case your EGR valve is 3 valves in one. It has a small, medium, and large valve. These vaves can cost around $300. What normily happens is the passage way in the intake gets clogged up with carbon. <P>1) Remove EGR Valve<BR>2) Clean EGR ports with a carb/intake cleaner. Make sure the 3 valves can move freely<BR>3) Clean the passage way in the intake side where the valve bolts to. In extreme cases take a 1' piece of steel cable maybe 1/8 and 3/16 diamiter in a drill and rod out the passage<BR>4) Reinstall EGR valve and check for leaks<P>Otherwise you need to get out the manual and go through the steps.<P>Tom

[Guest]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Tom Walsh:<BR><B>A EGR flow code means the ECM is not sencing enough of a change when the EGR valve is operating. The ECM will test the EGR while driving and look for a leaner exhaust O2 reading among other things. The whole point of this code is mainly for emmision reasons. If the valve was disabled or bad the light would come on. If a failure of the emmision system happens the light comes on. It was some kind of EPA law I herd. <P>In your case your EGR valve is 3 valves in one. It has a small, medium, and large valve. These vaves can cost around $300. What normily happens is the passage way in the intake gets clogged up with carbon. <P>1) Remove EGR Valve<BR>2) Clean EGR ports with a carb/intake cleaner. Make sure the 3 valves can move freely<BR>3) Clean the passage way in the intake side where the valve bolts to. In extreme cases take a 1' piece of steel cable maybe 1/8 and 3/16 diamiter in a drill and rod out the passage<BR>4) Reinstall EGR valve and check for leaks<P>Otherwise you need to get out the manual and go through the steps.<P>Tom</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P> As Tom posted, the EGR system does a self check when certain conditions are met. As he said, the most common cause of problems is deposit in the passages. Another common cause of EGR codes is modification of the exhaust system. If exhaust backpressure is reduced significantly (convertor elimination, etc)there may not be enough EGR flow during the self test, and the EGR code will set.<P>

[Guest]

That would make sense, since I did eliminate my muffler. It sounds really cool though! Would an STP fuel treatment intake cleaner do the trick or will I have to do some stuff in the engine compartment?<P>Mike/EdgeCrusher

[Guest]

If your EGR or passageways are cloged up a fuel additive wont work. The fuel injectors don't spray near the EGR valve. Even spraying in the throttle body will not do much good. The EGR is off until driving unless hotwired or put in a dignostic mode. The EGR passage with the car in the drivway is a dead end so no cleaners will flow through. The carbon in the intake passage can be hard as a rock. I have not found any kind of cleaner that will eat up thick carbon. If that is your problem you may need to do some physcal cleaning. Sometimes starting it with the vale off for a few seconds will blow carbon out of the exhaust tube. Be very carful of backfires/fires with cleaners. Some cleaners may cause damage to the o2 sencer. <P>I would have your exhaust fixed first. The other post may be right about that causing a code.<P>Tom