Bill Kennedy Posted December 17, 2005 Share Posted December 17, 2005 I am going to rebuild the breaking system on my 1955 400, including new wheel cylinders, rebuilt TreadleVac unit, stainless steel lines, etc.What experience do you all have with silicon brake fluid. I have used it in an old MG with no problems, but I hear complaints it swells natural rubber used in some old hydraulic systems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Randy Berger Posted December 17, 2005 Share Posted December 17, 2005 If you are using all new components, then you shouldn't have a problem. I've used it for over five years and it works fine for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_PackardV8 Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 My Executive came to me over 7 years ago WITH SILICONE brake fluid and it has been a weekly driver ever since. It had all new wheelcylinders but all the rest of brake system was original factory. 5 years ago i replaced the treadle vac unit with a modern power unit from a Honda civic. I ONLY drained the honda unit (no flushing) and installed it and added the silicone brake fluid to make up for what was lost. I've had NO PROBLEMS whatsoever with the brakes and this is a car that i drive at interstate hwy speeds and often well in excess of 70mph AND in high ambient heat conditions sometimes 100+ degrees F. NO PROBLEMS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kennedy Posted December 18, 2005 Author Share Posted December 18, 2005 RE: "I replaced the treadle vac unit with a modern power unit from a Honda Civic"How difficult was that conversion? Where did you mount the unit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_PackardV8 Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 Not difficlult. Mounted it in place of the TV unit exactly. The unit i used is from a 86 Honda Civic. Its identicle to the unit that Craig used on his car (ecept for reservoir). See the Panther website. Also do search in this Packard Forum for several threads detailing and discussing this procudure from about 5 years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Packards1 Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 The only problem I have heard of is the silicone fluid destroying the brake switches after a year or two. Several friends have had failures after the conversion. That of course is not a scientific poll but the switches are hard to find and expensive if it happens to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_PackardV8 Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 Yes. I forgot about the brake lite sw. Mine went bad to after about the 2nd year i owned the car. Since i disabled the automatic T/L funtion i just replaced the stop lite sw. with a 2 pole sw from AZO. Its been there over 5 years with no problems from silicone. But, then again, maybe the original stoplite sw should have lasted 50 more years like the heater valve?????? It sure is heavy duty too!! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Randy Berger Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 My stop-light switch went bad also - forgot to mention it <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />After several failures of "Standard" two wire switches, I installed a mechanically activated switch clamped to the steering column. Via this switch I also activate a relay under the hood to make/break current to the T/L system so that it performs in the same manner. I understand a three-wire VW switch from the 70s works the same as the Packard switch. If the switch has minimal leakage the silicon will get on the electrical contacts and burn them out. That is what happened to all the hydraulic switches that failed in my car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 I've always felt that those switches were handling too much current anyway. The switch needs to activate a Relay which handles the high current of the lights. Relay technology was in it's infancy when those cars were designed and good parts were not available. Many of those swithes may have failed, even if Not using Silicone fluid. I've been using Silicone in my '56 since I restored it, about a year ago, and it has original type switch but it activates a Relay mounted under dash. I haven't had any problems with it yet. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_PackardV8 Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 YES TO the relay idea!!! When mine went bad i was about to go nuts trying to figure out why. A test lite indicated the sw was good but no stop lites! A volt meter showed about 8 volts which should have been enuf for some lite. In desperation i bought a sw, installed it and problem solved. What kind of relay did u use???? More detai pls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 A good relay to use is the Bosch design type. 12. volt, 30. amp, (SPDT) single pole, double throw. Which is a very common type that can be purchased many places for less than $5. Other companies make that type but Bosch must have been the first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 Here's some on eBay:Since these come with sockets also, this is a very Good deal. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />The sockets normally cost as much as the relays. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BOSCH-SPD...1QQcmdZViewItem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigKev Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 Good price on the those Ebay relays. The guy had a 10pack of relays and harnesses for $15. So I just bought one of those. I figure between the headlights, brake lights, power windows and doors, those relays will go to good use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrpushbutton Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 Those relays are available from www.partsexpress.com, at a good price. see my post on the general forum re: silicone brake fluid. Needless to say, I'm in favor of it. http://forums.aaca.org/showflat.php?Cat=...amp;amp;fpart=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Morbius Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 My '54 Caribbean was restored almost 10 years ago and from mile one I've had silicone for brake fluid. In early 2001 I restored a '54 Pacific and again used silicone - in a totally rebuilt brake system. I used Ed Strain in Florida for the master cylinders and he uses the correct rubber seals for silicone use. ..........Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigKev Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 Talk about fast service. I did a Buy it Now on the 18th and they just arrived here at my office today (20th). I didnt notice that the seller was in the same town as where my office is located. The relays and harnessed are KeepItClean brand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kennedy Posted December 21, 2005 Author Share Posted December 21, 2005 I noticed an ad from a company in the Nov. 2005 issue of The Cormorant about a conversion kit for the brake light switch to go from the old three prong design to 2 prong. The kit includes a new switch. I have ordered it after reading how many of you have had the original switch fail. Will tell you if its worth the money when I get it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WCraigH Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I noticed an ad from a company in the Nov. 2005 issue of The Cormorant about a conversion kit for the brake light switch to go from the old three prong design to 2 prong. The kit includes a new switch. I have ordered it after reading how many of you have had the original switch fail. Will tell you if its worth the money when I get it. </div></div>I have one of these kits on my 55 Pat. When I mounted the relay in the engine compartment, as the instructions said, it failed within a short time. I bought a replacement relay at the local Radio Shack and rewired it to mount inside the (much cooler) passenger compartment under the dash. It's worked perfectly ever since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe kastellic Posted December 25, 2005 Share Posted December 25, 2005 Rick do you have a schematic on how you wired the relay in for the brake light circuit? What type of relay did you use?? I thought you posted a schematic for this some time ago?? thanks Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe kastellic Posted December 25, 2005 Share Posted December 25, 2005 Rick, I should have read farther down the forum on the relay question on what type to use, thanks again for all your help. ..............Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted December 25, 2005 Share Posted December 25, 2005 If I remember correctly, you would connect one side of relay coil to +12.volts thru an available fuse (maybe radio fuse) and the brake switch to other side of relay coil, to ground provided by switch. You will need to verify the polarity. The Relays normally open contacts connect the lights to + 12.volts from the fuse that normally goes to switch. I will try to find my schematic to verify polarities, if you need that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigKev Posted December 26, 2005 Share Posted December 26, 2005 Here is a diagram that I drew up real quick as a reference for wiring a brake switch with a relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigKev Posted December 27, 2005 Share Posted December 27, 2005 If I had a system diagram of the 3 prong switch in T/L equipped cars, then I am sure that I could come up with a relay setup that would work.The relay diagram I posted earlier would also work for headlights (2 relays hi/low beams), and that diagram would also work for something like a aux fan. Basically any hi-draw item that you want to switch using a low-load trigger.Relays are great as they really keep those vintage switches from getting burned up. The amount of splices, and layout of the circuit breakers on the Packard harness was something I was never comfortable with. So with the relays you can draw that those high current items directly from the battery, and fuse them independently. You can also use a relay and a momentary switch to build a latching circuit. Hide a momentary switch somewhere, connect it to a relay that you put between the ignition and the starter (or in the feed line to the coil). Put the key in the ignition, and press the momentary switch while you start it. The relay stays locked on as long as the ignition is on. When you turn the car off, the relay resets. Try to start it again, no dice dead. Press the momentary switch, and you are off the the races.It's a low tech kill switch that automatically protects the car when you shut the car off.Oh well enough of my babble... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted December 27, 2005 Share Posted December 27, 2005 I used a relay in my '56 and it still has original type 3-terminal switch. There is a schematic in an older thread, about a year ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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