1990 Reatta truble starting

[Guest]

This is a good one, Sarting trouble and when you get it started it stumbles then shuts off. I have changed the fuel pump and the throtle possition sensor,I just completed a tune-up but still can not take the car past the end of the driveway with out it shutting off.The car is not giving me any codes to work with.If anyone has run across the same problem I would like to here from you this is driving me crazy.

[Guest]

I have the same problem but only once in awhile

[Guest Stan Leslie]

See my reply to your follow up post, regarding idle air control.

[Gary Frank]

I have had simular problems with my GM cars and on two seperate vehicals the ICM (ignition control module) wich the coilpack is mounted and wired to was the problem. Look for discoloration on the epoxy surface of the ICM.<P>Good Luck

[Guest]

Thank you for your reply,But besides changing the ciol pack and the ignition module.The car is still shutting off. new parts so far. 1,coil 2,module 3,fuel pump 4,throttle position sensor 5,every relay possible.O and how could I forget the hundreds of hours spent thinking of what the real problem is.

[Guest Brad Gales]

I cured a similar problem in my 88 by replacing the air temperature sensor, which is mounted on the bottom of the air filter box. The sensor is less than $20 and easy to replace.

[Reatta Man]

Two other possibilities: <P>1. A failing crank angle sensor. However, usually when they go out, it is black/white with no grey areas. In other words, it either runs fine or it doesn't. <P>2. The ECM inside the car's interior. Oddly enough, one way to tell if it is the ECM failing is if it is running like crap but you are NOT getting any codes. Guess that is a case of "physician heal thyself." The main computer will NOT diagnose itself!<P>Joe

[bigrog]

take off the mass airflow sensor and clean all the dirt off of the little wires. the dirt acts as an insulator and causes faulty readungs. they usually run better when warm

[Guest]

How dirty is your throttle body? If any of<BR>the passages have carbon build-up, your car<BR>will stall.<P>Put a vacuum gauge on it as well, you may have a small intake leak somewhere.<P>Use only throttle body cleaner on the throttle body.<P>One more thing. Have you replaced the fuel<BR>pump relay. It may be shutting down.<P>Good Luck<BR>Brad<p>[This message has been edited by brad pennnington (edited 11-01-2000).]

[Guest]

thank you everyone that has repled.now i must tell you that this car is driving me nuts.I would just like to give everyone a update.since the last time you heard from me i have changed the computer and the mass air flow sensor.still no good but today i might have a new direction to go in.I decided to beat the fuel pressure regulator with a hammer.(Very lighty of course).So tomorrow it looks like we go back to the parts store to spend more money.I would really like to take a ride around the block.Has anyone had a simalir problem?

[Guest]

With all the money you have spent, why not buy a fuel pressure tester? They are $25.00 -$35.00. It will let you diagnose fuel related problems. You have mentioned many parts replaced except the Idle Air Control, which was mentioned in other posts. If the car doesn't stall if you keep your foot on the throttle, it's a good bet the IAC needs to be cleaned. The IAC could also be sticky. <P>------------------<BR>Hal, btk@vbe.com

[Guest]

Thank you,but I went today and bought the regulator.The car runs smooth at times now for just a few minutes then it backfires and only sometimes shuts off.Now if you turn it off with the key it will not start back up.If I didn't know any better I still think along the lines of the coil pack.Any more ideas are welcome.Thanks again to all

[Guest]

I to, had a similiar problem. Imagine the total incurred for new Delco parts, MAP senseor, Throttle position Sensor, Crank Sensor (which was the initial diagnosed promblem), ICM, and there was something else but I'm still in shock after 18 months of having the work done.<P>I checked the removed parts myself against the Factory service manual, all were defective, except the Map Sensor, but it was sometimes suspect, so replaced too.<P>The car has ran exceptional since and it has 160K miles on it.

[TheBlackMoon]

Hey Billy, are you sure your Reatta wasn't built by FORD? Sounds an awful lot like the cascading failures that made them famous. <BR>Anyway, if you still suspect the coil pack, and it's been under 30 days (meaning if you can do so), return it for a replacement and let them know you suspect it came DOA from the box. Most Auto parts stores are really good about exchanging parts suspected of being DOA. Just give them the courtesy of telling them if you were right or not.<BR>I've bought a MAT sensor (the sensor under the air filter), a coil pack, and a Equalizer that I had to do this with. The EQ and Coil pack did turn out to be bad, but I never had a second comment from any of the dealers.<BR>Good luck, and I hope it is a DOA pack; at least you won't have to pay for another one then.

[Guest wally888]

1st. a Q for Brad. Is Berryman 12 Carb. O K to use as throttle body cleaner?<BR> Re the problems above.<BR> My 89 had almost all the mentiomed symptoms a few months ago, ran some injector cleaner through, cleared up!<BR> It would start then stumble, race, idle too low, stall...........<BR> I also cleaned the sensors in intake.<BR> Now , several months after original problem, it has an intermittent code E 022( high idle) and I plan to spray Berryman 12 (some one suggested here) into throttle body.<BR> Also it was hard to start, a little prolonged, I ran another can of injector cleaner and now, a month later, the hard start has disappeared. It's hainted! <P>------------------<BR>Will it be recount or no count?

[Guest]

When you replaced the throttle position sensor, did you adjust it to the proper voltage?

[Guest]

Thanks for the information everyone. The car runs like a dream. I even changed the key switch. Now here we go, with all I have changed I shut the car off after a six mile road test and it will not restart. I hate to say it again but for the love of god, does anyone have any more ideas? Thanks again!

[Guest]

Use ONLY throttle body cleaner as it has the<BR>lubricants for the seals and will not harm your injectors. Gumout makes it as well as a couple other manufacturers. <P>I usually spray about 1/2 the can in the throttle body then start the car. That seems to work the best.<P>It is always best to use regular injector cleaner( the type that runs the car without fuel) ie mounts to fuel rail.<P>Good Luck<BR>Brad<p>[This message has been edited by brad pennnington (edited 11-30-2000).]

[Guest]

<P> The in tank fuel pump runs for only about two seconds when the key is turned on, and then it shuts off. It will only keep running if the switch in the oil pressure sensor detects oil pressure, proving that the engine is running. Although the switch is part of the pressure sensor, its failure will not show up on the pressure gage. If the oil pressure sensor switch or related wiring is failing, the engine will act like it has run out of gas.

[Guest wally888]

Update on hard to Start.<BR> I ran a large can of Techtron through the ejectors and there was no noticable change for a month. Now ( it is cooler), the car starts as it should, a touch of the key!<BR> Does Berryman offer throttle Body Cleaner?<BR>I purchased Carb cleaner, which ,I'm told , not to use! Suggestion?

[Guest]

Well everyone sorry for not getting back ,but my computer is as good as this car.The car still does not run right if it starts it will run ok now,but very seldom will it start.It looks like i will try this throttle body spray.Just one more thing were is this crank angle sensor located.Will this prevent the car from starting?