Jump to content

1911 Model T touring


ThomasBorchers

Recommended Posts

Hello !

We have restored the engine of our 1911 Ford. Engine runs but gets to less oil on the first cylinder. It seems that already is installed this small pipe which you can buy at Macs, Snyders and so on for more lubrication.

We bought now these oil dippers for the connecting rods. Could these solve the problem ? But we ask us, if the dippers will scratch at the bottom of the oil pan ? Or will they go through these deepening of the oil pan ?

Help, please...

Thanks

Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thomas, I probably will start an argument here, if anyone is reading this, but I don't believe in rod dippers on Model T's. There should be enough of a space between the front surface of the bearing and the crank shaft throw to let enough oil feed the bearing. Most Model T connecting rod caps are not drilled to match the dippers anyway. How do you know that number 1 is not getting enough oil?? Either way, I would install an external oil line from one of the after market suppliers. The magneto plug is replaced with one that has a flare fitting. It is connected to the front main via a length of copper line to let the extra oil feed the front main bearing. I would not run a Model T without one...

Frank

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Frank,

thanks for the answer.

If we crank the engine when it is hot, it is hard to turn it with metallic sound like a "scratch" or so. When we drop some oil through the spark plug hole of the first cylinder it turns much more easier. How can we get more oil to the first piston and cylinder ?

Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have a definite 'scratch' sound you should drop the pan and have someone turn the crank while you inspect the moving parts. There should be interference some place to make the sound. If the oil added to number one eases the interference, then I would look for a broken ring or something similar. Before you go and start tearing things down, though, carefully inspect for signs of wear. If it is a broken ring, you should see a wear line on the cylinder wall. The added oil may just be masking the problem, not fixing it. It's hard to diagnose a problem from a computer screen, good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Frank,

thanks for your answer. Actually it is a more squeaky sound. When engine is cold there is no sound or just a bit of this sound and when it is warmed up, the noise is there then and it is hard to crank the engine.

Can you explain me how the lubrication works at the engines and how the cylinders get oil for lubrication ?

We found one pipe which lubricate the timing gears. Is this the pipe you can buy at Snyders, Macs for better lubrication ?

Thanks again for your help.

Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thomas, The lubrication is a splash system. The oil rests in the deepest part of the sump at rest. The flywheel has 16 horse shoe shaped magnets that are set around the perimeter and act as a paddlewheel to pick up the oil and throw it in all directions. As the engine gets hotter, the oil turns to a mist or fine droplets to fall on all moving parts. The oil falls against the cylinder walls and all internal parts and then falls back to the sump to be recycled. If you had your engine rebuilt recently, it may be that the rings and bearings have not fully seated. Try running at low speed for a while to see if it runs in a little. Another thing you might try is to run it a idle with the oil fill cap removed. As it is running, slowly pour some oil into the oil fill hole to see if the squeak goes away. If it does, then you know it is most likely in the front of the engine. It might be that the timing gear it not meshing properly with the crank gear. The oil hole is directly above the timing gear. You don't have to worry about over filling a Model T engine until you have more than a quart too much oil. It takes 4 quarts normally. You can even drain some out the sump and start again. As far as the outside oiler is concerned, the easiest way to tell if you have one is to look at the magneto plug on the top of the bell housing. If there is a fitting with a copper or steel tubing coming from it, then you have one. If not, then you only have the internal one. I'll try to take a photo of mine and post it.

Frank

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...