What type of engine oil do use in your V8 Packard ?

[joe kastellic]

I was wondering what type of oil you prefer to use, and is there any paticular brand that might help the problem of aireation in the oiling system until some one comes up a better oil pump and filtering system?

[Guest Randy Berger]

I use Shell Rotella-T 15W-40 diesel oil. I know someone else that uses Mobil Delvac

[g's 55packard]

Yeah i would like to know which oil too..I just changed my oil the other day and used castrol 20w 50 and ive noticed way more lifter noise...What weight would you guys use??If i used diesel oil the weight is 15w 40 not much lighter...so what would you recommend to use????? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

[WCraigH]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just changed my oil the other day and used castrol 20w 50 and ive noticed way more lifter noise...</div></div>

That's what I use and I have no lifter noise. You could try straight 40W, which will have a higher viscosity than the 20W-50 at lower temps.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

Yes, I would recommend straight 30 or 40W, also.

30w If it's a tight engine or 40w if it's a little Loose. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

But 40w gets a little stiff at sub-freezing temps. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

I just don't cotton to those New-fangled Multi-weights. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

[g's 55packard]

Ok heres a question for you..I used castrol 10w 40 last yr with a little to much marvel mystery oil added maybe a quart or so of the additive..It seemed ok ..I just wanted to try 20w 50 seemed worse...Can i use a syntheic blend 10w 40 ...I heard that syntheic oil doesnt break down as fast as regular oil...Plus i think it wouldnt foam as fast as regular oil...Most new cars come thru with syntheic oils and there tolrances are alot closer and run hotter then our older motors..Just a thought......

[Guest imported_Speedster]

Hey, Synthetics are More New-Fangled than Multi-weights. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Buy they are supposed to be Good Stuff, give it a Try and let us know. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

You never know, It may fix All our problems!

My budget doesn't allow for such Extravagance, but if it was found to be the cure all, fix all, then I could go hungry a few days. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

[g's 55packard]

Well i went on Castol's website for the castrol syntec and you should read all the requirments it meets holly cow..it might work just if it doesnt there goes about 50 bucks down the drain... <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

well heres some info on castrol syntec what do you think will it hurt or help???

The unique, active formula of Castrol Syntec Full Synthetic Motor Oil is engineered to provide the ultimate in engine protection and performance. Castrol Syntec can be used with confidence in every gasoline engine passenger car, new or old, regardless of oil previously used. It is fully compatible with all conventional and synthetic oils.Syntec has been tested under the severest possible conditions to prove its outstanding durability. The result? Excellent performance in essential functions such as thermal stability, low oil consumption, resistance to oxidation, soot control, engine cleanliness and wear protection.

Features:

* Syntec provides far superior protection against deposits. Corrosive particles such as rust, acid, soot and oxidized fuel fragments can cause costly damage to critical engine parts. Syntec neutralizes these particles, suspending them away from engine sufaces.

* Now with even better protection against engine wear, Syntec can help extend the life of your engine.

* Syntec delivers the ultimate performance under high-temperature conditions: unsurpassed protection against volatility burn-off and viscosity increase.

* Syntec meets the world's toughest engine protection requirements, including European gasoline torture tests.

* Helps prevent sludge from forming in your engine.

* Neutralizes acids in your engine that can cause rust and corrosion on vital engine parts such as cylinders, bearings and hydraulic valve lifters.

Available Grades:

* SAE 10W-30: is the leading consumer grade. Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer's warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended. Exceeds European ACEA: A1, ACEA: B1, Corvette GM 4718M, VW T4 and all requirements of ILSAC GF-3 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils and meets Energy Conserving Standards. Also meets Japanese valve train wear and engine protection requirements for Porsche, Volvo, BMW and Mercedes Benz.

* SAE 10W-40: is the second most popular consumer grade, often used with older cars. Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer's warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended. Exceeds European ACEA: A3, ACEA B3, meets Japanese valve train wear, VW T4 and the engine protection requirements of of GM 4718M, ILSAC GF-2 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils, as well as Porsche, Volvo, BMW and Mercedes Benz.

* SAE 5W-30: is the most recommended grade in today's new cars. Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer's warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended. Exceeds European ACEA: A1, ACEA :B1, Corvette GM 4718M, VW T4 and all requirements of ILSAC GF-3 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils and meets Energy Conserving Standards. . Also meets Japanese valve train wear and engine protection requirements for Porsche, Volvo, BMW and Mercedes Benz.

* SAE 5W-50: provides the widest range of protection available. SAE 5W-50 delivers exceptional cold temperature pumpability for rapid oil circulation at start-up and provides a thick oil film for ultimate wear protection. Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer's warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended. Exceeds European ACEA: A3, ACEA B3, meets Japanese valve train wear and the engine protection requirements of ILSAC GF-3 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils, as well as Porsche, Volvo, BMW and Mercedes Benz.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

I've never tryed Synthetics in older cars but it's been my experience that any multi-weights that start with 5 or 10 are too light weight (too low viscosity) for any of my worn engines. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> Those are designed for fresh off the assembly line cars.

[g's 55packard]

Yeah but if you read the 1st paragragh it says its for new and OLD ....doesnt matter what oil you used previous either i might give it a shot ...who knows the 20w 50 didnt help any so what can i loose 50 dollars...Yeah i guess i CAN ... <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/ooo.gif" alt="" />

[Ron Green]

I have been using synthetic oil for many years in both old and new vehicles (6) with zero problems. Even with 50 year old engines that have never been apart and started life with the straight 30 weight.

Synthetic's will no longer cause leaks as they have added a additive many years ago just for that. Heat and cold do not effect it, in fact cold starts are easier with less wear. When using a carburetor typically some gas will end up in the oil unless you have one that is running absolutely perfect all the time under any condition or temperature.

Synthetic viscosity holds up much better when somewhat diluted with gas and contaminants then regular oil. It will not turn into a acid mixture as quick when storing a vehicle for the winter with dirty oil, so the main bearings won't be damaged as quickly from laying in bad stuff for months.

Pull a valve cover off an engine that has always run synthetic from new and it is clean while regular oil over time leaves a brown reside. The amount of reside will vary depending on how well the oil is refined. Typically the cheaper the oil the less refined and more reside. There is a reason why you can buy cheap oil on sale for 70 cents a quart and it is not because of quality.

It has always amazed me why some people spend thousands of dollars on a vehicle and then shortcut the most important thing, the oil change and filter. Wal-mart sells a 5 quart container of Mobil 1 synthetic for $22 ($19 on sale) which is factory fill for many high dollar vehicles. My 2 cents from experience and I don't work for no oil company!

[Guest bkazmer]

oils with low cold viscosity are meant to get to the top end of the engine quickly at start-up. They became more popular with proliferation of over cam engines. There is a practical trade-off in how high the hot viscosity can be if the cold viscosity is low.

[g's 55packard]

Thanks for the reply's so do you think using castrol syntec 10w 40 will hurt anything and do you think it might help with the lifter noise acompanied with the bad oil pump and air getting into the oil...Does sythetic oil stop foaming???

[Guest]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks for the reply's so do you think using castrol syntec 10w 40 will hurt anything and do you think it might help with the lifter noise acompanied with the bad oil pump and air getting into the oil...Does sythetic oil stop foaming??? </div></div>

I am a believer in sythetic oils as well and use it in my 2 daily drivers (97 Ford and 83 Volvo) I am reasonably certain that Castrol Syntec will not hurt anything and it might even help the lifter noise. I once had a Mercedes 450 SL which had been lubricated for almost it's entire 115000 miles with Mobil 1. The underside of the valve covers and heads were as clean as new with not even the usual brown residue and the engine did not ever burn more than a small amount of oil between changes of 5000 intervals. After a 2000 mile trip in 90 degree weather my 1997 Ford Crown Victoria used perhaps 4 ounces of oil with castrol Syntec 5W50 in the crankcase. I think it might be overkill in an old Packard engine and I use straight 30 oil in my Super Clipper but I wouldn't hesitate to use synthetic if I was to begin using the Pqackard for more than 1000 miles a year.

[g's 55packard]

Thanks Clipper47, I drive the car about 2000 miles a yr or less..I just want to go with Sythetic oil because im hoping it will give me the advantage of not foaming and causing the dreaded click clack from the lifters..My car has great oil pressure and it runs great,just has the lifter noise on the highway sometimes and when it warms up when im idling it does it too...So i think maybe i will try castrol syntec..Im just was wondering what weight would you use 10w 40 or 10w 30 ????

[g's 55packard]

Thanks Eric for you advice too...I think i will try the castrol syntec and see what happens..I will be doing the oil change probably tomorrow,and i have to replace the rear wheel cylinders while im at it too...they are leaking so i might as well make it a PACKARD day..... <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

[Guest]

Syntec also comes in 5W50. The old rule of thumb was to avoid oil with more than 2 grade numbers either side of the "W" such as a 5W 40 or 10W50 but with modern synthetics I don't think this applies so why not try the 5W50?