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Franklin 11A Frame Rails


bluetaxi

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I just had new frame rails for my 1925 Franklin 11-A made in my son's cabinetry shop. We followed the original prints exactly, with the frames made face laminating three three-quarter thick pieces of clear second growth ash; dimensions and hole pattern are per the prints. The shop in in Fairbanks, Alaska and my garage is in Atlanta, Georgia. Attached is a picture of them as they arrived; I will post a second email with a picture after I treated them with waterproofing stain to as closely match the creosote color the originals were. I'll now start transferring the running gear and eventually the body from the old frame to the new.

The frame rails on the 11-a were dry rotted behind the front fenders and were very badly sagging. These new frames should be the answer! I will periodically post my progress.

Rick Larrick

Franklin Owners' Club

Classic Car Club of America, New South Region

Antique Studebaker Club

Checker Car Club

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  • 1 month later...

From your attached photo, your frame rails are in far better condition than the ones I started with! I got the factory prints through the Franklin Club, and the drawings are very accurate and very detailed. Print numbers are:

37614 side Sill Assembly (Left) dated 9-27-27

40126 side sill Complete (Left) dated 5-22-28

31236 Side Sill Member dated 6-13-26

I had my son's cabinet shop (Dreamworks Cabinetry in Fairbanks, Alaska) make the frame rails. My son got the wood from a distributor in the Seattle area, and it was beautiful - nice grain, full 12" width, etc. His full cost to accurately reproduce the frames (laminate the ash, cut and precisely drill the holes, etc.) was about $2800. Wood cost was just over 1/4 of that. One advantage of the shop being in Alaska, is that it is very, very dry. Thus the wood is laminated and cut at very low humidity, and as it is brought to higher humidity it re-moisturizes and tightens, rather than shrinks and warps.

I have the car on blocks, with the front end removed and am rebuilding it. I will re-install it on the new frames in the next week or two, and then start on the rear axle and suspension. Once I have progressed further, I will post pictures.

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Guest roadtrip

Thanks, I have those prints. I will have a CAD template cut out in steel in the next 2 weeks. What body was on the car? How are you doing the clean up and restoration on the motor?

I will be sending mine into the blast shop, the block is very tarnished. Any pictures will be appreciated.

Do you have a name or a number of the mill he got the wood from? I will also be using a cabinet shop for my work.

Any questions or comments Email me roadtriprod@yahoo.com

Thanks Rod B

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The wood came from a distributor in Fairbanks called Superior Hardwoods (907-457-8351), but I suspect you can get very good quality second growth ash from any reputable hardwood lumber supplier.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Making progress. Didn't do much this weekend as I spent most of it getting the three old Studebakers ready for the North Georgia Studebaker Club meet in Marietta next weekend. The front end is rebuilt and I have either restored or replaced a lot of the frame hardware. Probably next Sunday, I will round up some help and lift the body from the old frame so as to more easily remove the rear end to rebuild it. Here is the rebuilt front end (sorry for the poor shot in a way to crowed garage - anybody want to buy a Studebaker?...).

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Guest stude8

No apologies about the crowded garage, remember a clean garage is the sign of a dull mind. That's what I tell the wife. Stude8

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  • 4 weeks later...

Finally it is going back together!

Harry Jenkins and I got the axles on the new frames today. If all goes well, we will drop the engine on tomorrow. Dreamworks Cabinetry followed the prints exactly - and every bolt is lining up perfectly! The picture speaks volumes...

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Engine put onto the frame today. Again every bolt fit perfectly. That was a lot of progress for a weekend (Thanks for the help, Harry!).

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Guest roadtrip

Also I was wondering if there was a ACN # for restoration of the chassis/wheels? How did you know what color silver to paint your rim rings and is it powder coated? Where did you get your new bolts and are they hardened carrage type bolts? Any help would be appreciated Thanks Rod!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Lowered the body onto the frame this weekend. Have fit the fenders, exhaust, brakes, etc. Should be running soon!

Everything has fit perfectly. Following the prints for the frames has worked out exceptionally well. The body bolts just dropped right into the holes in the frame rails.

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I started out with the intention of replacing all the bolts with stainless, and did much of the hardware. I however found much of the original hardware unique and hand forged - so kept it if in good shape. Much of the rest was originally just mild steel, so replaced alot of the carriage bolts with the garden variety from Ace Hardware. The only thing I could not find exact or better replacement for were the #20 1 3/4 inch wood screws for the engine mounting rails. I reused about half and replaced the rest with #18s.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest roadtrip

This is my first attempt at restoring and old car. The Franklin rails are comming slowly but surely. I should be drilling holes and staining next week. I just finished the wheels last week....... Rod

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Rick....It really looks good!!!!! Just got my computer back up(it had crashed). How's it running? By the way, it turns out the '21 Studebaker has a clogged radiator. That is why it was overheating. When I finish putting new tires on the Lincoln and get the gas tank sending unit on the Plymouth working I intend to have the '21's radiator recored.

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