HarryJ Posted November 28, 2004 Share Posted November 28, 2004 I have a 1921 Studebaker Light six model "EJ" that is running hot; but not boiling over. From what I can determine, the radiator is not performing up to par. There may be some clogged areas in it. I recently acquired the automobile and have been slowly working through the problems it has. When I drive it for extended trips it runs hot according to the the motometer. Feeling the radiator some areas are hotter than others indicating restricted flow between cells. I was wondering what methods are recommended to flush out cellular radiators. I have taken off the water jacket cover and discovered approximately 3/4" to 1" of mud sediment in the water jackets. I have not taken down the water pump so I don't know the condition of the impellar. Point being, how do I flush out sediment in the cellular radiator short of a rebuild? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter J.Heizmann Posted November 28, 2004 Share Posted November 28, 2004 Hi, Harry...The Radiator has been discussed at length over the years. You could find a lot of tips / experiences from participants here, by clicking the "Search" block at the top of this page. Hope this helps in addition to whomever responds to your query.Regards,Peter J. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarryJ Posted November 28, 2004 Author Share Posted November 28, 2004 Peter....Thanks for the response, I was unaware of the use of the search selection tab in the title bar. I need to explore the options available in this site, everytime I use it I find features which I was unaware. Maybe you should prepare a tutorial in conjunction with the site. I looked at the referenced "search" posts; however, none give me the answers I need. All of these seem to refer to tube type radiators rather than the cellular type of which I am seeking info on. I am preparing to address this over heating problem in the next few weeks on this Studebaker, which means I'll be taking down the cooling system, flushing the block out, rebuilding and repacking the water pump, and trying to make the cellular radiator perform better. Thoughts and suggestions from those experienced with this problem are most welcomed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter J.Heizmann Posted November 28, 2004 Share Posted November 28, 2004 Hi, again, Harry...Hopefully, someone will come soon concerning the tubular radiator.As for tutorial on using this site, I did, in fact, mention it to the Internet and Moderator people. Hopefully, they will agree when tabling possible changes to the layout.For now, scroll down the main page to "Forum Technical Questions". Scroll down to a post made by Peter Gariepy, entitled: "Most Frequently Asked Questions".Regards,Peter J. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caf Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 Hi Harry; I have the same trouble with a radiator that I think is constructed the same way. I t has square tubes horizontaly all soldered together at the front and rear of the core, A lot of expensive cars use this type but I think they give more porblems them the vertical tube type. Some shave off a bit on the front somhow and mount a modern core behind. Mine is in good shape but I haven't been able to find any information as to how to clean it. It gets hot on a long grade and is slow to cool off. I have asked for help but no one seems to know anything much about this type. I am trying to flush with prestone flushing compoun d but I don't seem to get much gunk out of it. I am going to try KOOL IT product, they say it helps an engine run much cooler, Will let you know what happens, Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarryJ Posted November 30, 2004 Author Share Posted November 30, 2004 Chuck..... Thanks for the response. Cellular both square and hex tubes were used extensively on low, moderate and high priced cars in the early years and I've seen some used on cars of the thirties. They were more effecient than tube types. I don't know if modern miracle flushes will do any good and I am leary of quick fixes. While soliciting for comments and suggestions I have been thinking about this quandry. My car has mud (rust and sediment) from the block clogging the small appertures between the tubes. This has lead to the overheating, is my best guess. I am definately going to disconnect the hoses and flush out the sediment in the block, to prevent as much trouble as I can in the future. At present without more advice my plan is to run water back and forth thru the radiator using house pressure and a hose. I also plan to use laundry detergent in a few of these low pressure flushes. This will be a messy process. By the way you still can obtain cellular cores and rebuilds on these type cooling units.What kind of car do you have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Soto Frank Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 Harry,Take it easy when "pressure flushing"...too much water pressure could cause ruptures or seams to split...Older radiator flushing compounds used to contain stuff like oxalic acid to dissove scale and rust...might also dissolve on older radiator core...A method a friend used on a 1920's Rolls-Royce radiator was building a little system to "Reverse flush" the radiator (out of the car): he hooked-up a pump and basically turned the radiator up-side down over a tank, and kept pumping water into the radiator against the normal direction of flow when installed on the car, and letting it srain through via gravity...there was little pressure involved, and I think he let it sit and percolate for about a week...he was able to remove quite a bit of sediment this way... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ken G Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 Yes, do not put significant pressure into a radiator that was not designed for a pressurized system. Cellular radiators are very fragile and extremely expensive to repair or replace.If you have (or you induce!) a small leak, I might put forward a method that worked for me. Drain the radiator, remove the hoses and allow it to dry. Attach a shop vac to one of the "ports" so that when you put your hand over the other there is reduced air pressure inside. Mix some epoxy glue and run a little into the leaking cell. If you can tell precisely where the leak is, it may be best to turn the radiator so the leak is downwards and gravity helps to put the epoxy where you need it. Put your hand over the port for a few seconds so the glue is drawn into the leak.I did this for a leaking cell more than a year ago, and there has been no leak there since. Indeed, even looking closely, I cannot tell which cell it was!Ken G, 1925 Rover 16/50 (San Francisco) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarryJ Posted December 2, 2004 Author Share Posted December 2, 2004 DesotoFrank.....Thanks for the advice. I did not plan to put the unit under any pressure as I was going to run the water through the unit without closing up the other end using my garden hose and street flow/pressure. I was not going to use any chemical flushes just let it run through as your RR friend did. I did consider placing some laundry detergent in the water stream to encourage any debris to loosen up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarryJ Posted December 2, 2004 Author Share Posted December 2, 2004 KenG You gave me an idea that I had not considered; that is letting the radiator and clogs completely dry out which may cause the wet clogs to turn to dust which could be vacuumed out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Soto Frank Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 Harry,Just bear in mind that most municpal and even most rural well water systems are capable of pressures of twenty pounds or more, and that if suddenly dislodged crud blocks off flow entirely, you could build-up enough back-pressure to do damage, even if your hose bib is just barely trickling...it will just take longer to reach critical pressure...I wish you luck with it!My '41 De Soto has a cellular radiator too...I'm grateful that thus-far it seems trouble & leak free... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarryJ Posted December 3, 2004 Author Share Posted December 3, 2004 Frank.....Thanks for the insight, I haven't started working on the car yet. What do you think of drying it out and then blowing or sucking out dry powder and debris? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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