1917 Hot Engine Restart

[Guest RogerB]

I have a 1917 Dodge Brothers Touring car.

After 30-60 minutes of touring, the engine

will NOT restart for 2 hours. I have

repeated the two hour cool off many times.

Any suggestions on how to restart the

engine without having to wait two hours.

Thanks

Roger

[StuMill]

I had a similsr problem with a Model A and it was a problem with the condenser. When the car cooled down it would start.

[Guest imported_RAH]

Roger,

There are OH so many possibilities! You did not mention if this engine had been recently rebuilt? If so it may have been inadvertantly set up too tight for early specs. Is this a recent problem that was not previously noticed? It may very well be an electrical problem with the coil, or condenser or it may be a water circulation problem causing overheating and siezing up. It may also be a problem with the starter/generator. Unfortunately there are more questions than positive answers at this time. Keep us appraised and we'll see what can be done to help.

Rodger "Dodger" Hartley

[Guest RogerB]

I would drive the car for 30-60 minutes.

Turn the engine off.

I notice the top of the carburator has condensation

on the round part and the tube connecting to the side

of the engine.

While the engine is running the top of the carburator

on the condensation is cold.

As the engine sat turned off, the radiator temperature

would rise. This is expected as the fan is not blowing

air across the engine. The radiator temperature rise

highest point is below the see thru circle at the top of

the scale.

With the engine off, the heat from the engine would dry

the carburator condensation.

The engine will turn any time during the cool down period,

but not fire.

The distributor is NE, rebuild with new points and condensor.

New spark plugs and wires.

I had Egge Machine rebuild the engine in '83 or '84.

I would run the car every month to keep everything working.

The engine has sat for two years while I had body work done.

Since the engine runs OK, I don't belive there is any problem

in the electrical side or in tight bearings.

I tore the car down to the frame and completed the restoration

about a month ago.

[nearchoclatetown]

Roger, do you have the heat pipe adjusted correctly that attaches to the block? I believe the book of info says that only in the hottest weather should it be in the open position. I keep mine mostly closed all the time, carb should not iceup.

[Guest imported_RAH]

Roger,

You say it turns over but doesn't fire? It still sounds like electrical problem. Could be coil breaking down OR as another 'brother' suggested even a NOS condenser could be faulty with age. The carb. frosting seems normal. I have seen this on many rigs. It is not likely to cause the problem you describe in any event.

Rodger "Dodger" Hartley

[Guest RogerB]

I do not have a heat pipe.

The carburator hangs off the driver side of the engine.

There is a gap between the carburator air inlet and

the engine.

Don't know if I need one. I am looking for a heat pipe.

Roger

[nearchoclatetown]

There should be a nickel plated pipe that connects back of carb to a hole through the block. It preheats the air as it passes from the Pass. side to carb side of engine. It has an outside shield that can be swiveled to expose a hole to accept fresh unheated air, much like a damper on a woodstove. Look at a Book of Info or another DB. I agree this might not cause your problem, but your carb should not ice.

[Guest RogerB]

I found the choke(bottom most screw) adjusted 1/4" off the stop.

I turned the coke to minimum(screw almost out of carburator) position.

The engine ran better, and the carburator did not have condensation.

The engine would restart on demand.

I disconnected the vacuum line to the vcauum fuel pump.

The carburator would have condensation at the top.

I fixed the float in the vacuum fuel pump.

There seems to be two conditions for carburator condensation.

1) carburator choke set too high(equivalent to two notches from inside the car), and

2) lots of air entering the top of the carburator. Of course, the car doesn't

go very far without the vacuum fuel pump working.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Roger

[RLS]

I had the exact same problem with my 1940 Chevrolet. The engine on this car is a bit tired and it burns some oil. Although the plugs never appeared fouled I found out that there is a type of oxide that forms on the plugs that when hot, conducts electricity. I changed the plugs and the problem was solved. After about 500 miles the problem would re-occur. I now clean my plugs about every 2 or 3 hundred miles with a sand blaster and have not had the problem since.