kenmatthews Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Well after 6 months, I finally have a rebuilt block and back in the engine compartment...how's that for fast service! I sent out the headers to be ceramic coated and they look great. Overall pleased, but went to pick up the vehicle and it was hard to start. 20-30 minutes later once I DID get it started, it was blowing gray smoke (light-to-medium) and continued to do so as I drove out of the pkg lot. The first couple of times I tried to give it gas, it would cut out immediately. Once I got moving and up to cruising speed, the smoke went away.Could this be a carburetor problem? I dediced to leave the car at the place doing the work. I didn't want to take it off their property without speaking with them and getting them to finalize the work I have already paid for!!Any thoughts on where to start? The mechanic has put everything back in and properly tuned the car, etc. He mentioned it looked as if the carburetor had "rigged" parts and was something beyond what they would touch. I'm wondering if there are other areas I should be concerned with.I noticed there was no hose coming out of the fuel pump (side closest to front of car) and am wondering if that would cause engine to fail at idle or make it difficult to start.P.S. Many thanks to OLD-TANK who I met on this forum. He was nice enough to send a pair of used heads my way for the rebuild...thanks WILLY! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Hey KenThanks for the kind words and congrats on the new runnig car. Newly rebuilt engines will smoke some until the rings are seated and all the assembly oil is consumed; or it could be water vapor from condensation in the exhaust system and /or head gasket problems.The poor performance is probably a vacuum leak...plug off the line going from the intake manifold to the fuel pump and if that helps we can get you proper routing of lines on the fuel pump. be sure the vacuum advance on the distributor is working.Carb is rigged??...how can they tell form the outside?...did it work ok before? Always remember that you need 3 things for an engine to start and run: fuel, spark and compression. It seems that your mechanic should know if there is a vacuum leak, bad carb, even if he does not work on them.If you can drive now it some now your issues can be solved.Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenmatthews Posted July 28, 2004 Author Share Posted July 28, 2004 WILLY,You're in the neighborhood...thanks for responding to my post. Yeah, the mechanic said a carb. specialist stopped by the shop and to him it looked like someone used a piece of clotheshanger wire to create one of the mechanisms. I won't know for sure until I go back out there and take another look.Did you catch my note about the other side of fuel pump (radiator side nipple) not having a connection? I'm wondering if there is a vacuum leak, most likely there is but I don't remember the connections...uh-oh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_NikeAjax Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Ken, get yourself a vacuum guage and hook it up to one of the vacuum ports. I would suggest warming up the car, so the choke is open fully, then remove all sources of vacuum, even the choke-stove, and block them off. Any good manual will show you how to read one of these, and they're great for setting your idle screws too. Once you get the car running right, one by one, replace your vacuum lines.Good luck,Jaybird Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 KenIf there is a connection missing at the fuel pump, you have a vacuum leak, that is why you need to plug vacuum sources and get a vacuum guage.I have Carter and Rochester carbs for parts...let me know what parts you need.Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenmatthews Posted July 29, 2004 Author Share Posted July 29, 2004 Okay, I'm headed back out there this weekend. As luck would have it, I met someone locally who has same vehicle and is willing to lend a hand.I'll get that vacuum gauge, Jaybird...thanks!!!K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenmatthews Posted August 2, 2004 Author Share Posted August 2, 2004 Well here's the result.- fuel pump port closest to radiator was left unplugged- tube coming out of front intake manifold went nowhere and was plugged off- no connections to vacuum wiper motorI took the plug from there and capped off the open port on fuel pump and started her up. Ran a little rough so I started adjusting the carb (idle screws) and adjusted the throttle rod and VOILA! Much better....until it started overheating...hehehehe. The fools had not reassembled the coilwinding spring on the butterfly valve so of course I had the left side smoking like a chimney.WILLY, I'm ordering an electronic wiper motor to install. May have some vacuum/connection questions for you regarding intake/fuel pump and Mason jar.That's all for now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_NikeAjax Posted August 2, 2004 Share Posted August 2, 2004 Some of the things I replaces on my car, '56 Century, were the fuel pump, with an electric, the ignition, with an MSD, and the wiper motor with an electric. These have made the car way more trustworthy. There's nothing quite like driving in the rain at night and watching your wipers almost stop as you pull away from a light, "Oh s**t!"Jaybird Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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