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Water Pump on a 401


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Hello & Happy New Year<P>I think I need a water pump for my '63 Le Sabre. When I fill my radiator, coolant appears to be running out of the bottom of the pump. Before I pull it out, I want to be sure that there are no faulty freeze plugs located near the pump. Can someone tell me where the freeze plug(s) on a 401 are located ??<P>Also, how big a job is it to pull the pump out ??<P>Thanks<P>Ira

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The water pump has a "weep hole" under the housing right where the shaft runs. It is the first place to start leaking. There are no freeze plugs there, but you could check the thermostate manifold good to be sure it is not leaking at each end gasket or the thermostate housing it's self.

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The only problem you really have is getting the pump out without breaking any bolts.Twist back and forth and be gentle. Be sure to get a NEW pump - not a rebuilt. Dont overtighten the drive belt. Good luck.

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I missed the one on EBAY.<P>I see that POSTON has the pump I need for about 50 bucks including gaskets - and it is a new one - seems fair so I'll probably get it from them (unless one of my friends here warns me otherwise !).<P>I plan to spray all the bolts with penetrating oil and letting them sit for a while before trying to remove the pump. Hopefully they'll all come out in one piece. I park outdoors and it is just too cold here in NYC to get into something nasty - so I'll be off to the mechanic at the first sign of trouble !!!! Or maybe I'll just order the pump & wait for a warm spell !!

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Could somebody give me a little more info on that new water pump from Postons? Is it aluminum as the originals, and does he have the ones for A/C applications?<BR>(I know I could call him myself, but more people will get the info on this post if someone can answer it).<BR>-Brad

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You asked where you "Freeze-Plugs" are. To the best of my knowlege,Buick never had any.They do,however have core pluugs on the side of the block which were used to support the cores while pouring the casting,then used for cleaning out the block afterward.

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Poston lists only one part number - the same for both A/C and non-a/c applications. My car does not have factory a/c. Are the pumps different ??<P>I know that the non a/c cars have no fan clutch but I am now wondering if the pumps are different.<P>I am not concerned with "originality" as much as "functionality". As such, I would suspect that if there were originally a difference in the pumps, and if the aftermarket makers list the same pump for both .. then as long as the a/c one fits non a/c cars - it will be okay. If anything it would likely be "higher capacity" and could not hurt a non a/c car.<P>Does that make sense ??

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The only difference between the AC and non AC pump is the number of vanes on the impeller. They probably sell the AC pump for all applications. When trying to remove the bolts from the pump , hitting the bolt head with a hammer several times will sometimes help loosen it ,and believe me you will need all the tricks you can find to get them out without breaking.<BR> Good Luck

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I did some more research on the A/C vs. non A/C pump. NAPA & Cars Inc. both list separate parts for each case. Oddly they both charge MORE for the NON A/C pump. That would seem to blow my theory that the A/C pump was higher capacity.<P>Can anyone explain this ??

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I had heard that the A/C pump did in fact have the higher capacity, but that when ordering one from a modern parts store (NAPA, etc.) that they just gave you one pump--whichever one they had, regardless of application, and therefore not to order one from them if you needed the A/C unit.<BR>I agree that it'd be more desirable to have the A/C version for higher flow. Especially in Florida.<BR>Now, an old Motor's Manual I have says not to rebuild these pumps (probably because they're aluminum) and to replace with new. Are the ones from parts stores remanufactured? Are the ones from Postons?

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Napa & Poston claim to be new. Not sure about Cars Inc.<P>If we agree that the A/C unit is higher capacity, why do you suppose it's cheaper than the non a/c unit ??

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my local NAPA was out of stock so I looked up waterpumps in the Yellow pages and found a company that rebuilt mine for $50 in 1 hour. looks good and works fine. has a 1 year warranty but they claim to use bigger bearings than the stock so it should last forever. <P>I used the same approach to rebuild my starter. My old starter is working fine but I wanted a backup since it is so old. Found a rebuild shop that rebuilt an old one for $75. Haven't installed it yet. Plan on doing the same for my alternator if the NAPA goes out again. The original NAPA with the lifetime warranty is on its 3rd in less than 1 year. But I would spend the money again to not have to keep changing it out. <P>Also found a great place to have my A/C hoses replaced. <BR>I have found that the trick to run these old cars is finding the local network of specialist that can fix the individual part.

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Amen! I had the generator "rebuilt" on my '54 for $70. To make a long story short, it died three months later and the day after the Buick became our only transportation for a while, and it was a Saturday. I called a Mom&Pop: "Yup, got one on the shelf--completely rebuilt, $35, no core. But be here before noon, because I'm going home early today." He then showed me that while mine might have had new brushes maybe a bearing and a great spray paint job, it wasn't really rebuilt. Then he showed me the new windings and armeture in his, and the shelf with "over $5000 in new windings" on it.<BR>The same guy blew the dust off the box for the new throw out bearing I bought for the '54, as well as asking me if I wanted "bonded or riveted brake shoes, because I've got both on the shelf. $15 a pair, no core." <BR>Mom & Pops--Can't beat 'em!

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The A/C pump can actually make the motor run HOTTER. It pushes the water through so fast that it doesn't stay in the radiator long enough to cool it. If you have a very large radiator, it will be ok.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest wildcat65401

i was just replacing my timeing chain and we noticed the 1 year old [napa] water pump had started leaking from the weep hole . i've been quoted $53 to $118 for a new one , $53 being the mom & pop store, what a suprise. grin.gif" border="0

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I ordered the non-ac version from Napa.<BR>It has three vanes on the impeller.<BR>When I pulled the old one out today I was surprised to see five vanes.<P>I have two theories. A) The aftermarket company that installed the AC way back when changed the non ac to the ac pump B) Someone else replaced this puppy somewhere along the line and used the a/c version.<P>Since the car has been running happily with the A/C version - I think I'll swap Napa for that one.<P>I have two questions that I hope someone can help with.<BR>1) Does an a/c compressor create any significatnt extra drag on the engine WHEN THE A/C is off ??<P>2) MARTINSR mentioned that the a/c pump could make the engine run hotter due to coolant not staying in the radiator long enough - but would be OK if the rad were big enough. Are the Radiators different in a/c vs. non-ac applications in '63 ?<P>Thanks<P>Ira

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Ira,<BR>I had a radiator that was borderline no good on my 65 Riv with factory A/C, and got stuck having to install a 3 vane pump in an emergency. Trust me, the 5 vane does keep it cooler. I could not run my A/C without gradually running hot with the 3 vane, switched it back to a 5, and went back to normal. (Since got a new radiator as well.)

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Guest wildcat65401

hey there<BR> i was wondring ,<BR> my 65 401 has a good and large rad.<BR> we replaced the water pump last year , i dont know with which one , and later the ac fuse started blowing. would a non ac pump cause this??????

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