Dead Battery

[Guest]

Well, I left my lights on overnight the otherday, draining the battery. This would be the third of fourth time in 1.5 years that I have pretty much drained the battery, once via snapped alt. belt, rest via lights left on. The battery itself (Megatron) is from previous owner, and must be at least four years old. Well I able to jump it yesterday right away, but had to jump it again two hours later which took forever, just wouldn't go. Finally got it jumped, went on highway back and fourth for about 25 miles. Car started after I got back, and twice that night as well as this evening when I go to supermarket. Come out of market....dead. Call roommate, try to jump, nothing. The courtesy lights won't even go on. <P>My question is, can a battery be so dead that even when you have jumper cables attatched, it won't allow enough juice to flow?

[The Old Guy]

I would check ALL the cable connections before I invested in a new battery. You may find a corroded connector is causing you trouble

[Guest Skyking]

73Electra225, the battery sounds like it is shorted out. If that's the case, no matter what you do, it is kaput!! (DEAD)

[Guest]

For what it is worth, I have had the dead battery blues for years. Megatrons, Exides and Champions (look like Exides) barely last 2 years. Once they get drained, they just don't come back. And yes, I do disconnect them when the cars are stored. Sometimes they come back if you put them on a high charge for a couple of days. However, once they do the 2 starts and they die routine, it is time for a new one.<BR>Good luck,<BR>Mark

[Guest Mr. Solutions]

What about draining the battery of the acid and putting in new electrolyte? (Assuming it is not sealed) Electrolyte is cheap... I just paid $8 Canadian for 1 litre for my 12/6V battery. If this will work it is still cheaper than a new battery.<P>Is something like this possible on an already used battery? Will this fix it or simply revive it for a period of time before it dies again?<p>[ 12-10-2001: Message edited by: Johan de Bruin ]

[Guest]

Ya, I figured as much that the battery is kaput. I'll check it with the meter and baster tester thingy to double check before I go off to KMart for a new Delco which I have had good luck with in both my grandmother's '92 Park Ave. (mid-sixe battery) and the old '78 Impala(large 1000 CA unit, same as I'll put in the Buick). Now of course this all happens during finals week as well as my planned road trip to Florida. I guess better now than on the road, though.<P>Zach

[GSMAG]

As a battery recharges, it produces deposits on the plates which drop to the bottom of the battery. Over time, these deposits build up and short out the plates on the bottom of the battery. When a battery dies like yours has, this is usually the cause. Any time you deep 6 a battery, it comes back at less than 100%. The % calcium content in a battery's lead plates dictate how much it will come back. The tradeoff is that calcium allows the battery to have a higher CCA. But it won't come back as well. Hope this provides some insight!

[Guest]

I always carry a voltmeter in my car. It has helped me, and helped me help other motorists many times. <BR> Your battey is most likely dead, but you can be sure with a voltmeter. The voltage at the bat should be 13.5-14.5 when the engine is running. If your battery isn't holding a charge sometime the battery will read something like 15 volts when the engine is running. After you shut down the engine turn on the headlights for 30-60 seconds and then recheck the bat voltage. The voltage should be 12.6. If it is 12.2 it is a marginal battery if it is below 12.0 its dead. <BR> I would also check the battery voltage at the posts, and then on the cable to see if their is a drop at that connection. If you have never replaced the bat cables it would be a good idea.

[Guest]

All fixed! Went to Sears, bought a DieHard Silver, put it in and she started right up. Checked w/ voltmeter and alt. was putting out 15.5V. And the beat goes on.

[Reatta Man]

Zach,<P>Based upon your last post, I now know what is killing your battery. <P>Your voltage regulator is allowing too MUCH voltage in your system. The max charging/running voltage should be no more than 14.8 volts. If yours is putting out 15.5 volts, you are OVER charging the battery. Replace that voltage regulator before you go on your road trip or you may be buying another battery in Tumbleweed, Arkansas at Billy Bob's House of Parts. <P>On a '73 deuce and a quarter, I think the VR is still seperate from the alternator. Sometime in the early 70's Delco started putting the VR inside of the alternator. Check with a god parts store. <P>Good luck and Merry Christmas!<P>Joe

[Guest]

Okay, I went to test the voltage again since the last time I did I was in a rush and it was night. Started up motor cold and tested across terminals, 15.2V. Waited for warm up, top rad hose warm. and I was a hair over 15V. Revved engine up, and meter stayed put at that reading. Are these reading a little better now? Chassis manual says 14V +/- 0.5V for Voltage Regulator spec., but also says when testing for over/under charging that meter should read between 13.5V-15V and if its over 15V, replace regulator. Its internally regulated too just so you know.<p>[ 12-16-2001: Message edited by: 73Electra 225 ]

[Reatta Man]

73,<P>If you have some tools and there is an auto parts store nearby, I'd take the alternator off and have it tested at the store. <P>Sounds like you fried a diode in the alternator. <P>Good luck,<BR>Joe

[GSMAG]

Overcharging the battery will result in a shorter battery life. I believe your regulator is internal. It can be replaced with a different one. Go ahead, take it apart and replace it. If you haven't done this before (and this isn't your daily driver) I encourage you to take it apart and check it out.