Best way to lift body from frame?

[37sedan_mod47]

It's finally time to lift the body from the chassis on my '37 Special 4 door. I am planning on using 2 overhead hoists (one in the front and one in the rear) and attaching a chain to each of the two front body mounts (using a solid bar between the 2 chains to make sure the pull is vertical only and not inward)and attaching to the two rear body mounts in a similar fashion. The body will be raised just long enough to roll the chassis out from under it. I have materials to build a wooden body dolly with front, mid, and rear supports which should hold the body w/o fear of damage for years if necessary.

My concern is that the center of the body will try to buckle during the lift. If so, should I brace the door openings for a job that will only take 15-30 minutes, or do I not need to worry about it? The body is very solid with no rust in the floor, rockers, etc. If I could get 6 guys together at one time I would try to manually lift it, but that's not an option.

[Guest Albert]

You will have to lift the body 18" to 2 feet up (back of frame will rise a few inches as well as clearence is needed for the hump over the rear axle). I used an engine hoist on the front and back, then when lifted used a 4x4 under supported by 2 45gal drums front and back. PS... dont forget to remove the steering wheel and outer colume shaft.

[Pete Phillips]

I'm taking auto body restoration here at McPherson College right now, and what you described is similar to how we removed the body from the chassis of a 1928 Franklin sedan two weeks ago. It went fine with two hoists--one for the front and one rear. Your '37 Special will not buckle in the center, especially since (I believe I am correct) it has no wood in the roof nor the rest of the body. And, it being a sedan, it will have the center door posts, a good metal cowl, and metal trunkback to hold everything together. Don't worry about it! The important thing is to build a good, level base for it to sit on for a few months or years, so it doesn't get used to being on/settling on an uneven base.

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

pphillips922@earthlink.net

McPherson, Kansas

[palbuick]

Another trick would be to remove the rear wheels, set the drums on a dolly. This way you would not have to raise the body so high. I wish i had done this when removing the body from my 40. Also if you can remove the steering column, this will help make it easier.

Good luck

Jim Schilf

palbuick

[37sedan_mod47]

Thanks for the advice. I thought I would be OK, but I don't want to take any chances. Actually, the body was off of the frame many years ago when the previous owner started a full restoration. The frame was sand blasted and painted and the body reattached, but no futher work was done. So pulling it this time will be a piece of cake. The bolt are all removed as is the steering column. Unfortunately the paint applied by the previous owner is starting to peel away due to improper application or it was just cheap paint. Anyway, I am going to remove the paint, etch the metal, and apply POR or Eastwood's rust encapsulator. Does anyone have an opinion on which is best to use over primarily rust-free metal? I want something durable that can also be the top coat, which is why I am leaning towards the Eastwood product, since it is not supposed to be harmed by UV rays like POR is.