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cruise control


old-tank

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Has anyone put a cruise control on a 55 Buick? Details man, I need details!<BR>After driving 4,700 miles in 10 days to the Nationals and back the right leg of this old fart sure got tired. ( It will be OK to remind me that cruise control is not an "original driving experience" especially since I refuse to use radials, disc brakes, 455's, sub-frame,etc.)<BR>Willie

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Can't say I have put cruise on anything that old. The oldest thing I have done it on is late 70's cars. I do it for a living as part of my job. I am sure it can be done. You need a couple of things to go with your aftermarket cruise. You were thinking of aftermarket right? If not say so but I'll tell you some of what I know. A good aftermarket cruise is built by Rostra Precision Controls. Two models I would suggest would be the "World Cruise" and the "Global Cruise" (check out <A HREF="http://www.rostra.com)." TARGET=_blank>www.rostra.com).</A> You will also need a "cruise switch" many types available from "clamp on" style to stick on and all sorts of others. You will also need a "signal generator" this produces the signal needed to maintain speed. Two types of sig/gen you could use would be an inline generator which connects inline with your speedo cable at the tranny as long as your trans has a typical thresd on style cable like you would find on a th350 or 400. OR the other option is a "pick-up coil and magnet" package. You mount the coil on a bracket that hovers near the driveshaft and a magnet attached to the driveshaft for the coil to hover over. Check out some local Auto Electrical or auto acc'y shops around you for prices and the style of switch you will need and you can put together a package. You may want to have them install it cause it can be a pain to install the throttle linkage needed and for it to be safe. Check out the local GM dealers and see who they to install aftermarket cruises for them and that can get you started. Hope this helps and if you need any more info let me know. If you want factory cruise that would be way over my head, I dont even know if it was even available then. You would know better than I on that since you own the car.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Got a Rostra cruise control and it is up and working! Just a few bugs to work out...it shuts off when you use the turn signals. No permanent modifications to the car and it is mostly hidden and can be removed in 15 minutes if I need to show the car. Found out you cannot buy directly from Rostra or the distributor...just from the installer who wouldn't install it anyway,; and it's a good thing since those idiots were clueless! Trouble is I probably paid for installation. Anyone interested: details on request.<BR>Willie

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Way to go Old-Tank and congratulations. <P>Where did you go for ignition power? If you went to one of the wires coming down the column harnes it may lose ign power when you turn the signals on. Put a test light on it and see if it cuts out when the signal is turned on if so find another pwr source.<P>Out of curiosity how long did it take you to install? Which model did you buy and what type of switch did you use. I'm curious.<p>[ 09-12-2001: Message edited by: gm boat owner ]

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Hello Lee<BR>Thanks for your suggestions. For power I used a switched 12V source at the power seat cicuit breaker that is not affected by the turn signals. I hooked the brake wires as per instructions to the hot and cold side of the brake switch. My guess is that power is bleeding back to the cold side of the brake switch when the turn signals are turned on, but I can't prove it using my volt meter. I will try a diode on the cold side first and if that doesn't work I'll get a lever brake light switch and use it only for the cruise.<BR>On the products I used: it was the Global Cruise (no vacuun lines), the panel mount control switch which I attached to an extra ash tray face from a parts car, and the signal generator kit #250-4153 (the magnet kit would not work with the torque tube/ closed driveshaft). I could not use the 7" extension cable because of space limitations so I used another speedometer cable. The cruise cable anchor was mounted below the coil bracket and the cruise module is near the antenna. I could probably do another in less than 2 hours, but this one took 8+ hours due to reading , planning, etc. <BR>Willie<BR>Put in the diode and it still cuts off when the turn signals are activated..waiting on a lever switch,,,also it will not stay engaged below 50 mph...will hold and maintain 65-70 mph where I usually drive.<p>[ 09-13-2001: Message edited by: old-tank ]

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Old-Tank I got another tip for you on the cruise. The rostra cruise does not look for 12v on the purple wire to disengage the cruise when you step on the brake. It actually looks to see the LOSS of GROUND to disengage. Whether it goes 12v or OPEN does not matter if the ground goes away the cruise shuts off. What might be happening is that you dont get 12v on the cold side of the brake but are momentarily losing the ground when the light flashes. Hope this helps you out a bit more with troubleshooting.

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That brings a interesting trivia question. Does anyone know what year cruise control was first offered? And on what car? The oldest car I remember seeing having cruise was my old 1971 Oldsmobile Toronado. My 1972 Buick Electra has cruise. I am not 100% sure, but my uncle had a 1965 Cadillac Sedan Deville and I think it had cruise. Not sure. confused.gif" border="0

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Shaffer, I parted a 64 cad with everything under the sun...including factory cruise...I still have the Guide-a-Matic H/light switch if anyone knows of anyone in need as well as a 64 Wonderbar radio also for the Cad.

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Well it WAS working! I got about 50 miles int a 1200 mile trip to west Texas and it started acting up: disengages for unknown reasons after 10 feet or 10 miles...sometimes uphill..downhill...level. Will not resume after this shut down but will resume if brakes are used. Also accelerated wildly sometimes right before shut down. Still shuts down when turn signals are used<BR>I did get a mechanical switch from a street rod supplier so I could isolate from turn signals...so if you say a ground is involved do I need to wire to a grounded bulb? Will try a few more things before I return it and try a different brand.<BR>Willie

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If its a say 2 pin switch that when pushed in makes contact between the 2 terminals then what you do is put ground to one and your purlple wire to the other. The purple wire will see ground when your off the brake and open when you step on the brake and it will disengage. This way it will eliminate any weird stuff it may be seeing thru the brake light bulbs. Keep your red wire hooked to the brake 12v constant. Make sure all connections are solid if one is going intermittant its hard to get a handle on any real probs. Is your speedo working ok, no bouncing needle or anything. Sometimes if the cable is bent too sharply it can bind causing wavering speed signal. let me know what you find. I'll try to bring a manual home with me and if your still having probs see what we can figure out.

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Hey guys!<BR>Thanks for sharing your information on this forum! It's like a drama unfolding with a little education thrown in! I probably don't have the <I>Kahonas</I>(sp?) or patience to try this but am looking forward to figuring this out with you guys! cool.gif" border="0 <P>Thanks again guys! grin.gif" border="0

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Old Tank,<P>About twenty years ago I installed a Delco cruise control system to a 1947 Ford with original drive train. Both Ford and Buick used a closed torque tube drive line. If I am not mistaken your '50 Buick also has one. <P>The Delco system used pick up magnets that were designed to be installed on the drive shaft. Since the Ford had a closed drive line, I installed twice the number of magnets required for the drive shaft of one of the front wheel hubs inside the drum. This was because of the difference between rpm ratios of the drive shaft and wheel hub. This system worked very well without any problems for many years of pleasurable driving.<P>Car Nut

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Finally I might be on the right track...could not get it work even with a new mechanical switch unless the cold side of the switch was wired thru a bulb filament to ground, but not just any bulb, a small bulb used for side markers did not work. Right now I have an old headlight bulb laying in the floor attached with alligator clips, it comes on when i apply the brakes but the cruise does work. Next I will substitute the bulb for a relay and see if it likes that or try a couple of 1157's....details to follow....<BR>Willie

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Update...did not like the relay (borrowed one from a 92 Merc) so I wired in a couple of 1157's in series to simulate another set of brake lights activated by the mechanical switch ( the bulbs are in a bandaid can in the left kick panel).<BR>This project was not that hard but I would NOT buy another Rostra unit! First you cannot buy from Rostra or a distributor, only from an installer who would not install it anyway, charged for installation and then was clueless when I asked for help and now they tell me that the unit is not returnable and has no warrantee if not installed by them. Second Rostra technical support would not even talk to me since I was not an installer!<BR>I bought a mechanical brake lite switch from a street rod supplier who also sells cruise units which are less expensive and have support available...too late now.<BR>Thanks Lee for your help...if I were around the corner from you it would have been working much sooner.<BR>Willie

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