Newbie With start stall problem 1990 coupe fuel filter location

[Guest]

Hi all! I Think it's a fuel problem and want to start wth the fuel filter. Any idea where it is located? The car sat for over 2 years. Added a battery and she fired right up. Drove it around for a couple og days and now she starts up, idles rough and stalls. Sometimes it will fire right back up and do the same. Sometimes it won't restart.

Thanks, RiNgO [color:"black"]

[Guest Motu 56]

The fuel filter is located underneath the car behind the left front tire.

[Guest EDBS0]

Welcome to the Reatta Forum, here you will find answers to lots of your Reatta problems. Some others too <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> New and veteran members can almost always solve a problem given a proper description of the symptoms and if available associated codes.

Your "profile" is a bit thin, you might want to flush it out sometime in the near future?

As an aside and on only a slight tangent, how much gas was left in the tank for the 2 years? How much have you added since starting and was there a gas stabilizer put in the gas upon storage? Was it stored in a cold climate? Indoors, outdoors, heated?

It sounds as though the car doesn't have enough time to go into closed loop mode. It is running off the default tables for starting. The fuel pump relay would also be a good place to look. Lots of other places after that.

PS: you might want to post your vin number, color, side molding color and seat type attention Barney Eaton for the data base.

[Guest]

Thanks!! The car sat outside in the VA weather. Full tank of gas. No stabilizer added to fuel (I had no Idea it would be parked for so long) It ran great for a few of days to a week. At about 1/4 tank I filled (Exxon super) and added STP fuel treatment. The problems started later that day. I was only about a mile from home and made it back spitting and missing the whole way.

I'll start with the fuel system. Plugs and wires look good and all are firing.

Which buttons on the Climate controls do I need to hold down to get the codes to read out.

Check out the pic of my Reatta !

I'll registar my VIN info this eve.

Thanks again, Ringo~

[Guest EDBS0]

Interesting effect. There appears to be some aura borealis interference with my computer <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />.

So if it has been running for some time you have only 3 things to look at.

<span style="font-weight: bold">AIR . . . Fuel . . . SPARK</span>

Fuel filter is a good start. Would be nice if you could put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail first though. Could only be a tired relay though. I have an 89 because of the CRT, 90s are some what different.

I believe that there is a 90 service manual posted on the web, do a search of the forum topics to find it.

[Guest]

The parts store was out of filter. So I picked up a bottle of water remover. Within ten mins of rough idle there was a slight click and everything smoothed out. Now I know there may have been some condensation in the system, but do you think that whst was causeing the start stall rough idle?

I know little about the engine set up in mordern cars ( I'm use to the old school chevy small blocks)but I read something about open and closed loops. Sounds like it may have been stuck in closed loop. what could cause that and should I expect to see it happen again?

Thanks for your help!

Thom

[FlyByNite]

That Virginia tag with the seal in the middle looks like it belonged to a polititian.

[Guest EDBS0]

Oneringo;

My new bestest friend <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />, now about that Samsung DLP TV ... <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Water/condensation in the fuel just might be the problem. Water remover or a quart of methyl hydrate will take care of that.

You want to be in closed loop. The computer is taking readings from all sensors and modifying the air fuel mixture, timing etc. to produce the most efficient running conditiond possible.

Long storage periods can leave a lot of water in the transmission pan also. Suspect that it would require a longer period of storage but as a preventative measure I would drop the transmission pan. Replace the transmission filter and put in synthetic transmission fluid. I use Wall-Mart. Not the best but much better than dinosaur transmission fluid.

Good luck.

[FlyByNite]

For future referance, it's number 28 in the attachment.

[Guest]

Gonna jump on the tranny, cooling and brake fuilds this week. Took it for a spin last night and I did notice a little whine in 1st at about 3k. I guess she's paying me back for abandoning her! The car ran fine with normal throttle response and shifts. I park the car for about an hour and on the restart it did the bad idle thing again and cut out. On the second start it idled rough and then snaped into shape. Do you think it's getting stuck in open loop? and if so, where should I start.

Thom

ps I replaced the O2 sensor (Bosch) and the crank sensor about a year before it was parked. These are the only repairs other then brakes that it's needed since I picked it up 8 years ago (it had 52k, now at 98k .

[padgett]

Rought then snaps smooth sounds like you need new plugs. Rapidfire #3 I believe.