Jump to content

metal ready


WillBilly53

Recommended Posts

Do not hose off the metal etch completely as it helps the paint stick. I didn't hose my metal off after applying the metal etch, just used a sponge full of water then wiped it down with a white lint free cloth. Either way should be fine.

After applying the metal etch your shiny new metal will look real ugly almost like a power is laying on top of it but thats just the way it looks. A little surface rust will not hurt however what you are probably seeing is a brown color of which could be a sign of the metal being dirty, greasy, etc. Go to POR's website as they have a whole list of questions that have already been asked or give them a call direct.

I just check my bilge area last night in the Amphicar I did with POR 15 last winter and after a summer of gear oil, motor oil, lake water and all kinds of crap floating around in there for over 3 months the POR has stood up better then expected and not one sign anywhere of it starting to lift. Just wipe a section off with a rag and it looks like the day it was painted, and no I don't work for them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Mr. Solutions

I've been using this stuff as well for almost a year now.

All I can say is follow the instructions to the letter. As an example: I painted a piece that was prepared according to spec. After painting the 1st coat, I developed little, what looks like, pin bubbles. I called the POR-15 guys & they said I still had moisture in the metal. So make sure your metal is bone try before you begin.

After lightly washing off the Metal Ready, I now dry the pieces that I can fit in the stove, and this leaves like a "dust" after the fact. Again the POR-15 guys told me this is to be expected, and I should just brush it off prior to painting.

I also asked about the flash rusting that occurs, and again, it is normal & desireable.

The ONLY thing that my POR-15 guys have to me to NOT do is to NOT store the paint in the fridge between uses as the literature says. Reason?? Well, if you paint with the cold POR onto normal temp metal, then you introduce moisure into the paint because of condensation. Ever since I've started following this advise as well, my results have gotton better.

The only unsightly thing that happens now & then that I cannot explain, is that sometimes my bigger large surfaces develops what looks like "sand" spots. Almost as if somebody put a few grains on the wet paint, or there was some serious dust in the air. The point is, the painting is all done inhouse, much to the wife's chargin, but hey...

Hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks ron and mr.solutions.

i was wondering about the storing in a fridge thing - condensation and all. i wonder why they put that in the instructions? maybe it's meant for LONG term storage?

anyways, i had a great success with application on the backside of my dash. i also did the grille ( i took the stainless teeth off) and then i topcoated with a flat black - should set those teeth off real well when i polish them up and install them!

one thing i got the the same pin bubble affect on the glove box door (i did it separate from the dash) so i'll do it over, but the back of the dash looks great, i must say.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...