Trunk lock

[BigBr00]

I can open my trunk from the glovebox. However, I can not open it by using a key in the trunk key-hole. I also don't have the keyless entry remotes, so I don't know if they would work.

Here's my question: I took the trunk lock assembly out today (replacing the cap) and noticed that it's just an electrical contact that turns on the end of the lock when the key is in it (or something like that). Could this have gone bad? It seems like that would be easy to fix. If not, what is the common cause for the rear lock not unlocking the trunk?

[BigBr00]

Has anybody had this same problem? Or can anyone just offer some advice? I don't see a troubleshooting section for this in the FSM. Jim Finn? Barney? What do you guys think???

[Guest imported_daddy3jr8]

Do you hear a click when you turn the trunk key? You should. Check and clean the connection contacts. Check for continuity when the key is turned. If you don't have a circuit tester - get one. They really come in handy if you are a Reatta owner. A cheapie would work for this. Never had mine out, so I don't know if switch comes apart to clean inside. If you want a remote try remotes.com $40 ? Good luck with your Reatta - I love mine!

Wayne

[Shelby]

The lock is hard to get to and I have heard the replacement parts are not available. Get a remote and just use that instead of a key.

[padgett]

Rong again I do have one ('90 FSM cell 8D-134) & shows that two different circuits are used for the trunk release - fuse 17 for the glove box button and body fuse 2 (front LH side of console) for the rear key lock. Would check that fuse first.

Are two wires to the lock and one should be hot all the time. Short togeter and the solenoid should cycle (YMMV, Notary Sojack).

[BP]

Padget is right, check the fuses first. (That guy is amazing!!)

I had a similar problem ? My key would not operate the trunk latch solenoid either. Then one morning I went out in the driveway and the Solenoid was cycling (clunk, clunk, clunk) (Haven?t seen much on this problem lately but a search of ?trunk solenoid? or ?trunk cycling? may bring up more information. The problems were not related but the later FORCED ME to fix both problems.

You are right about the key simply operating a switch. In my case some contact cleaner and a few cycles cleaned the contacts there and resolved that problem connecting the switch to a multi-meter told me when the switch was cycling and that the contacts were closing properly.

The solenoid cycling was linked to moisture in the solenoid and wiring. Again cleaning the contacts reconnecting with shrink-wrap resolved this problem as well

I seem to recall three wires where I only expected to see two. (I?m embarrassed to say that I couldn?t confirm the wiring to the FSM drawing) When I was fiddling with the solenoid wiring I?m pretty sure I snipped the extra one and sealed it tight with shrink-wrap.

Again as I recall reinstalling the lock into the body was the most difficult part of the whole process. Would have helped to have an extra set of hands.

Good Luck

[BigBr00]

Well, after taking the lock out, I cleaned it with copious amounts of WD-40. The following day, I tested the lock to see if the circuit worked - it did, so I installed it back into the trunk. Put the fuse (#2) back in, and tried the lock - Hallelujah!!! It worked!!!

Thanks for the advice guys.

[Guest imported_Flash]

Barney had made a previous response post regarding WD-40 and trunk locks. It worked for me also. Seems like WD...could be re-named "trunk lock elixer".