BuickTom87 Posted June 2 Share Posted June 2 Well I just got my 29 Buick running again , we had it running decently til 45mph til it started to bog a bit… I am running a marvel brass carburetor from a 28 Buick that was rebuilt about a year ago . So we adjusted the carburetor a bit , which I didn’t really want to do. I was guided my a family friend to adjust it some more . So let’s just say it’s all screwed up now it doesn’t even run correctly .. He adjusted the fuel adjustment lever on the bottom and the air screw . My question is how open should the fuel adjustment dial be open also wanted to know how open the air screw be open many many turns should it be. The second you hit the gas it’s sounds like it’s starving for air and gasping then belching . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted June 3 Share Posted June 3 Tom, I do not know if the rebuilder followed these instructions. Did he replace the venturi(s)? There are a lot of details regarding correctly rebuilding these Marvel carburetors. The initial settings are in this document. Hugh 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickTom87 Posted June 3 Author Share Posted June 3 The rebuilder was Tony bult and he rebuilt it is the car ran great , til my fathers friend who thinks he knows it all started messing with the adjustments . I will go adjust it to on what you have wrote . I greatly appreciate your help . That information is priceless 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
28Buick Posted June 4 Share Posted June 4 My 1928 Marvel runs like new thanks to Hugh's excellent instructions. You are correct his information is priceless. I just installed my second blanking plate in the exhaust diverter valve, as I thought I could use Permatex high temp instead of JB. The exhaust popped out the plate. The directions call for JB Weld Extreme Heat, which is amazing stuff, it is water soluble, cleans up easily and holds tight at manifold temp. Good luck and keep us posted on your Marvel progress. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted June 4 Share Posted June 4 Tom, I have also seen poor running occur from worn out distributors that will vary the point gap. Remove the rotor and cap. Rotate the engine so the ignition points are on the cam. Shake the distributor shaft back and forth while holding it where the rotor is attached. If your distributor bearings are worn, you will see it in the point gap changing. This change in gap should be imperceptible. I have pulled distributors that have had so much wobble that when the points are fully open on the high point of the cam, they will go to closed points in this test. That's over .016 to .018 inches of play. Hugh 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickTom87 Posted June 4 Author Share Posted June 4 Thank you after following these instructions, the car never ran better. I also replaced the rubber hose fuel line with new line and routed it differently , that also helped greatly 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now