STUTZ BB 1928 HEADLIGHT SWITCH AT BOTTOM OF STEERING BOX

[mbeitner]

My headlight switch at the bottom of the steering box has burned. By an internet search I could find out neither the make nor the model number of this special switch, although I tried several suppliers names like Autolite, Delco-Remy, Mopar, Napa, Essex, Farco, Gold Band, Prestolite, GP, Niehoff, Shurhit, Ideal, Standard, Cole Hersee, P&D Quality Parts and others. I also looked for PACKARD spare parts for models around the end of the twenties as they used the same switch.

 

You can see the exterior appearance of this switch on the pictures including my burnt one. I would be greatful to get further information to locate this steering box light switch for my STUTZ car.

[series14]

I Had the same problem with my 1932 Super 8 Packard Headlight switch. I was able to get the blueprints from the Packard proving grounds and made one, it took about 24 hours, but it works great.

[kbeach]

@mbeitner

I have been looking at all the pictures that you posted for a couple of months now, trying to decide if I should respond or not. I decided that it would be best to comment in the hopes of preventing another Stutz or similar car from having a like fire.

First, the good news, from the pictures, it looks like your switch may be salvable. Be very careful in dismantling it. You may need to make a new firber base plate which is doable. May years ago, Paul Freehill an I pooled our parts together and did come up with enough parts to complete two working switches, one for his 1927 and one for our 1928. Now we are trying to to put together one more for our 1927. These switches and parts are just non-existent.

Now I hope no one takes offence to the following, but look at my comments as a learning tool, as my goal here is to prevent another car fire.

It's been a long time ago,but for many years I investigated fires for cause and origin in both automobile and structures so my comments come from years of training and experience. The switch on your car appears to have not been is use at the time of the fire so it was most likely a victim of a gas fire not the cause of the fire. Looking at the engine splash pan you can see what I believe to be the remains of a plastic fuel filter, also visible is a hose clamp on the fuel line to the carburetor. What are missing are the air cleaner/flame arrester and carburetor drain pipe from the air intake (from the picture there is a rod that goes up unter the carburetor but I believe that it is the spark advance rod and not a drain). It is not un-common for an updraft carburetored car to belch a ball of fire out the air intake when cold (or because of bad valves, bad ingition, starving for gas,  etc). With out the drain tube, excess gas will lay on top of the engine splash pan. Add the no air cleaner and you have an instant fire. If plastic filter and or rubber/nylon lines have replaced the original fuel lines from the original vacuum fuel tank system, there will be a fuel supply of around, plus or minus, one pint of gas at gravity pressure or about one pound plus of pressure maximum. If you are using an electric fuel pump with rubber/plastic lines, the gas will be supplied to the fire at about three pounds pressure plus the amount of fuel in the tank until the pump is turned off, then the gas can keep syphoning until the tank is empty. PLEASE TAKE NOTE OF THIS! Most of the time the gas will keep syphoning until the tank is empty.

This is where I get on my soap box about vacuum fuel tanks. I just do not understand why anyone would replace a vacuum fuel system with and electric pump. The original system is about the best ever designed and built for the time and are very trouble free. The two most common reasons for not working property are dirt or loss of vacuum (bad gaskets or improperly installed/wrong fittings). Next are broken springs on the valve mechanism and bad floats. There are a number fo folks on the AACA Forums that have parts and can rebuild these tanks if you are not able to.

What prompted me to write this is looking at some of the other pictures posted here with the same type of modifcations made to the fuel systems. They are one bad startup from suffering the same fate.

Just for the record, my first Stutz was a non running Model M that had been converted to electric fuel system before my purchase. It did come with an air cleaner but, being a 16 year old kid, I was in too big of a hurry to start it after cleaning the carburetor and did not install the air cleaner. Yes, it caught fire. I put the fire out and the only damage was to my pride but it was a cheap leason that I will never forget. This was long before rubber gas lines with hose clamps so I was just plain lucky in that respect.

Starting in 1928, Stutz used a Zenith model 105 D carburtor with a brass body but still has potmetal parts inside which should be replace. Part way through production in 1928 they went to a model 105DC which is made of potmetal and they should not be used for obvious reasons. Much later in production Zenith redesigned the 105DC, still marked 105DC but made from a better metal. Not all parts will interchange with the earlier models.

 

Some General rules for fuel systems.

1. Don't try to re-engineer the fuel system. The engineers of the day knew what they were doing with what was available at the time. Newer in this case is not better.

2. Do not ever use an electric fuel pump with a vacuum fuel tank. Vacuum tanks need to be vented to work. If an electric pump is added before the tank, once the tank is full the incoming gas will be forced out the vent into the engine compartment.

3. Do not use rubber/nylon hose or plastic filters in the engine compartment. If an electric fuel pump is installed, it should be back by the fuel tank and if rubber/nylon hose is used, us only the corredt fittings that are designed for it.

4. Use the correct air cleaner. You will never see a well sorted marine gas engine without a flame arrester. There is a reason for this and the Cost Gard got it right.

5. For updraft carburetors, use the correct drain tube that will get the excess gas out of the engine compartment.

Don't forget the fire extinguisher. Keep it where it is easy to get to and fully charged.

And last, every car should be fitted with a battery cut off switch. Do not go cheap on this but get a good one with a high amp rating, then, if you are putting it on a Stutz or similar car, do not put it on top of the starter but somewhere where it is easy to get to without lifting the hood. Trying to turn off the switch by reaching through a gas fire is not a good idea.

Just my thoughts.