Do 1933 series 50 and 60 have the same exhaust manifolds?

[David Zitzmann]

In need of the center section of the exhaust manifold. 

between the 50 and 60? Do any of the experts know if they would be interchnageable?

Thanks,
Dave

 

Edited July 25, 2023 by David Zitzmann
I cant do things right:-( (see edit history)

[32buick67]

Unfortunately, the 33-50 and 33-60 are different to accommodate the engine size/performance differences, obviously the larger exhaust diameter for the 60 series.

Something to keep in mind about the casting part number "1269418-2" in your photo when tracking down parts:

• Buick part number for the center section casting = 1269418
• The -2 means nothing for the part design specs and functionality as it relates to finding another casting...some think the hyphenated numbers are related to production line numbers or sand mold revision numbers, more on the DFM side
• There might be another Buick top-level assembly part number for the center section casting when all of the accessory parts and accoutrements are installed, the key will be to ask about flange width and ID when interacting with folks with possible part leads

The accessory parts on the center section such as the levers, spring, brackets, etc. are interchangeable.

1933-34-35 were pretty standard across all models for these sub parts.

 

If the broken ear is something you are trying to overcome, I suppose you have probably already considered welding the ear, inserting a modern sealed steel sleeve welded to ear flanges, etc.

 

If it were me, and if I couldn't find an original replacement by the time I wanted to get back onto the road:

• Option 1, I would try to weld the ear back on the casting (thankfully I can do this work, don't have to rely on a shop, but many folks cannot go this path), and there are risks of making things worse or resulting in a fix that lasts only a short time due to improper understanding of welding cast iron.
• Option 2, I would weld up a flange with ears drilled to match the pattern onto a spool piece that snugly+ fit into the ID of the original casting (interference fit on a well-cleaned surface is ideal for sealing).  I would make the ears from 12ga steel.  I would use graphite or a simple packing between the original casting and the new T-shaped ear flange/tube to ensure sealing during the interference fitting.  The stresses on mating parts are low during heat-cool cycles of somewhat similar metals, and the single original ear bolt hole would be more than sufficient to secure the center section to the two new ears and the exhaust pipe connected to the muffler....if the short exhaust pipe to the muffler is rigidly secured per original design and isn't deformed to a point which requires forcing it to align with the center exhaust section.  Flex without stress is key.
• Option 3 might be to redesign the T-shaped center section using modern flanges and welded tubes if you aren't concerned with original looks and don't need to use the carb heat for the heat riser.

The Marvel heat riser + carb will self-support from the two bolts on the intake manifold, and you can leave the riser open on the exhaust side or block it off with a plate (hopefully it doesn't leak from rusting riser tubes which was a common failure, and if leaking is occurring or will occur, then you should consider blocking and sealing the exhaust flange on the riser).

 

I do like the original Buick iron castings from the 30s, high carbon...

 

[David Zitzmann]

Thanks/ So the fit is the same ut the porting is different. I was fairly certain they were different but was not sure where.

Dave

[32buick67]

Dave,

The 60 series has a 2-1/4" exhaust ID for all 3 holes, and the width of the top casting flange to flange is 9-5/8".

From what I recall, the 60 casting is overall larger, but the mounting areas and screw holes for accessories are the same 50 vs 60.

[David Zitzmann]

Thanks; that is a big help. For the time being I made a flange plate to weld onto existing flange and put the broken piece back in.  Someday I may find a better one with no cracks:-)

Thanks,
Dave