Engine won't start

[no1parfive]

Referencing previous posts, I have finally completed the arduous task of removing, and reinstalling, the cylinder head, manifolds, and turbo in order to replace the damaged turbo gasket.  After doing this, I attempted to start my engine, it would turn over ok but not start.  I made a spark check and it was good, checked fuel input at fuel line connection to fuel rail, it was good (good flow of fuel during starting attempt). I'm now wondering if my fuel injectors not functioning is the problem. The injector wiring harness was disconnected (plug) during maintenance but was reconnected, and physically checked to ensure a tight connection. My blue service manual says the SMEC controls the injectors, so I hope this is not the problem.  Anyway, will continue to troubleshoot and hopefully find the problem.  

All help, from all sources, would be appreciated.

Edited June 14, 2023 by no1parfive (see edit history)

[Hemi Dude]

2 hours ago, no1parfive said:

Referencing previous posts, I have finally completed the arduous task of removing, and reinstalling, the cylinder head, manifolds, and turbo in order to replace the damaged turbo gasket.  After doing this, I attempted to start my engine, it would turn over ok but not start.  I made a spark check and it was good, checked fuel input at fuel line connection to fuel rail, it was good (good flow of fuel during starting attempt). I'm now wondering if my fuel injectors not functioning is the problem. The injector wiring harness was disconnected (plug) during maintenance but was reconnected, and physically checked to ensure a tight connection. My blue service manual says the SMEC controls the injectors, so I hope this is not the problem.  Anyway, will continue to troubleshoot and hopefully find the problem.  

All help, from all sources, would be appreciated.

As a basic first attempt to see if the engine is timed correctly, try spraying some carburetor cleaner into the throttle body as someone else tries cranking the engine from inside the car.

If the engine will run on the carb cleaner, you can begin thinking that there is an electrical connection problem.

If the engine does not start or even attempt to start, I would suggest rechecking the crank/cam timing as well as the distributer timing setting at the intermediate shaft sprocket. (Figure 3 on page 9-17 in your blue book)

[no1parfive]

Will do this, will let you know how it went........................Sprayed carb cleaner into throttle body, also tried starting fluid, still no starting or burping........as it relates to crank/cam timing, during removal of head, I followed exactly the directions as shown on page 9-17, fig-2, using my engine hoist, kept tension on cam sprocket and sprocket in place on timing belt, also, cam was kept in place as well as engine crankshaft.  Had no problems with removing cam sprocket or reinstalling same, sprocket realigned perfectly with cam spline.  Also, the distributor was never touched during maintenance, only the spark plug leads were disconnected from the plugs.  Prior to the maintenance, the engine was running fine except for the blown turbo gasket making a loud noise.  My thought process had me wondering about the distributor becoming untimed, if that's the probable cause, if it was never touched.  Also, the same thought process applies to the camshaft becoming untimed if the sprocket was removed and reinstalled per the manual, which I did and as previously explained.  Anyway, I again appreciate all  your help with this very irritating problem.  I will be trying to check camshaft and distributor timing per the blue book, looks like it's going to be a challenge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 14, 2023 by no1parfive (see edit history)

[no1parfive]

Referencing previous posts: I overlooked an item relating to my attempted engine starts, which was, while the engine is turning over, I can hear a hissing sound, similar to compressed air escaping from an air tank, the sound isn't very loud, but is definitely detectable, the sound stops when the engine starting is stopped.  I'm now wondering if I installed my cylinder head improperly, or a foreign object is lodged between the head and the block, preventing a complete sealing, which could possibly be causing the very low compression readings (about half of what they should be) on all cylinders.  Anyway, wanted to share this bit of information with everyone.........all opinions and speculations would be appreciated.