Ignition Buzzer

[Guest]

Okay, since the new starters installed and all runs good. A few noises tho, read starter replacement for details.<P>This questions involves me locking myself out at least three times so far. Isn't there supposed to be a buzzer that goes off if the keys are left in and the door is open? Please tell me there is, and if so, how to fix it. The buzzer works when I push the key in all the way to start 'er up if thats any help.<P>A side question, can overgrounding in the distrib cause hard starting? I ask because cold starts are especially hard, warm starts aren't easy either. This started with the new starter and replaced ground wire inside distrib.<P>Many Thanks Guys & Gals!!!<P>Scott<P>[ Being updated later today/tonight ]<BR>[ <A HREF="http://www.minimall.net/buick" TARGET=_blank>http://www.minimall.net/buick</A> ]<BR>

[Guest]

CyberBuick,<P>I just keep an extra key in my wallet.

[Guest]

I do that (now) as well, it has saved me twice already. That would keep me safe, provided I always had my wallet with me. <g><P>Which is why I would like to get this fixed. I could've sworn I heard a different buzzer sound the otherday when I opened the door, but thats maybe the second time I've ever heard it since I've had the car. I don't mind the buzzing, I would mind tho if it literally talked to me tho. "Idiot, your keys are still in the ignition." I couldn't handle that one. hahaha<P>Many Thanks Guys!<P>Scott<BR>

[Guest oldtimer]

the buzzer will only work with the keys all the way pushed in the tumbler, if they are pulled out slightly buzzer will not work. what wire did you replace ? the one from the breaker plate to the housing ?. one last question, what type of "hard starting" are you having ? (engine cranks fine but does not start or cranks slow and then starts....)

[Guest]

The key is pushed all the way in. Still no buzzer unless I push the assembly in as you do to start or turn the key.<P>The wire was a black 18(or 20?)gauge that ran from the vac advance screw to the underside of the breakerplate. Since the wire was broken and I couldn't figure out how to remove it from the breakerplate I just cut it at the metal connecter on the underside. New wire is black 18gauge that runs from the vac advance screw to the one screw that attaches the pertronix ignitor. I have pix I made tonight I'll post to my site which I'm updating as I speak.<P>Hard starting, the starter spins like a mofo, but it just doesn't wanna start readily. The reason I ask about the possibility of wrong starter is because I notice the chassis manual states the 455 version spins faster I think. It's especially hard to start in the morning when cold.<P>Also, the little black peice that goes on the vac advance pin broke when I installed the pertronix so it's w/o plastic shield. Tomorrow I plan on using a little electrical tape to make-shift a shield. I have no idea if that matters.<P>Again, I did notice only twice the seperate door buzzer going off, so I know it's there, but extremely intermitent.<P>Many Thanks!!<P>Scott<BR>

[GSMAG]

All the starter does is spin your engine. It has nothing to do with it "catching" and finally starting. If the engine is "spinning like a mofo" then the starter is doing it's job! Youmentioned in the other thred that you didn't get rid of the resistor wire to the distributor and you're using it. That may be a part of your problem. Just a thought.

[Guest grisby]

Scott, could be a couple of things--I actually disconnected mine because it was on all the time-even without a key(only with door open of course). This is on a 72 and I see you have a 71 so I would assume you have the same setup. First check the door jamb plunger. The door jamb switch has 2 prongs on it(drivers side)- 1 for the light and 1 for the buzzer. Maybe you jamb switch is bad or you are grounding out somewhere in that wiring. Second-- there is a buzzer switch in the steering column underneath the signal cam which is activated by the key. Perhaps that is bad- not hard to get to, you could check that-just bend the prong carefully-maybe its bent-Hope you have a standard column because for a tilt column(like I have) they no longer make that little switch and that is why I disconnected mine.<BR>Hope this helps<BR>bill g<P>I just had a thought--it could be that you have a bad ignition lock-I was told that I should replace mine, which I did but it kept buzzing, it didint help for me--but you said if you push it in it works- so it might be the lock cylinder or the buzzer switch itself--good luck<p>[This message has been edited by grisby (edited 03-29-2001).]

[Guest]

I wanted to ditch the resistor wire but a) couldn't find it already show 12v key-on at the coil. Which I find very strange.<P>How do I remove this little peice of crude wire and I'd gladly do it! Easy is better, but I can work with tough.<P>Yes, I have a 71, and it has a tilt column. doh! I am going now to try a few things on the car and will check for a second pin on the doorjamb. Will also hunt for that switch in the column. Not alot of room to hunt around in there, couldn't be that hidden. heh<P>Bad ignition lock? As in a failed ignition key cylinder?<P>Headed out how to 'try stuff'.. :-)<P>Many Thanks Guys!!<P>Scott<P>[ Now Updated A Bit ]<BR>[ <A HREF="http://www.minimall.net/buick" TARGET=_blank>http://www.minimall.net/buick</A> ]<BR>

[Guest]

Tonights Update: I cleaned rust off pin on vac advance, used small bit of elec tape. Cleaned off the rotor end, and the breakerplate. I removed the connector on the Red wire from starter and replaced with new. Also cleaned the matting surface of the vac advance. So now everything is clean connections. But it still doesn't want to start. Cold I damn near have to floor it to get it started. Warm I have to go a good 3/4 down to start.<P>On the ignition buzzer, I looked for two doorjamb pins, only found one. While at the theater parking lot I was fiddling and noticed the ignition doesn't buzz when pushed in if the door is closed. Only happens when door is open. This leads me to believe it may be the cylinder? Is that a fair assumption?<P>I also noted that the key doesn't have to be pushed in either, just turned. This has me thinking maybe a retaining clip is missing?<P>Many Thanks Everyone!!!<P>Scott<BR>

[Guest grisby]

Scott, its not that there is 2 door jamb pins. You have to remove(unscrew) the door jamb plunger to see the 2 pins(tangs-whatever they are called). that is where the 2 wires are attached-right behind the jamb switch. It sounds like its in your lock cylinder-its probably worn or maybe its the buzzer itself. The buzzer is easily seen. After you remove the strng wheel-then the lock plate(its easy if you have a lock plate remover) then the turn signal cam, you will see the switch. its on the uper right hand side inside the column-it has 2 little metal prongs sticking up-maybe they just need "bent" a little or maybe it went bad. If its your lock cylinder, this is the time to replace also-you do not have to remove buzzer to do this-you will see a slot that you put a very small screwdriver into and while you are doing that you pull out the cylinder. Hopefully its just that you need the buzzer lead just bent a little. If its the buzzer and you do locate one let me know where you find it-I have searched high and low to no avail. There are long and short buzzers and I have yet to find one that fit and work in my situation. Retaining clip?--nah there is none in there, but yes its a very tight place to work. HTH.<BR>bill g<p>[This message has been edited by grisby (edited 03-30-2001).]

[Guest oldtimer]

it sounds like your ignition is working o.k, but has something to do with the carb. do you pump pedal before starting ? how is the spray pattern ?

[Guest]

grisby: I'll unscrew the doorjamb thing and look, but I can't remove the steering wheel as the only thing holding it together is the cover I have over it. The plastic on the thing falls off randomly and I end up finding peices on the floorboard. If anyone has a good green one for sale, I'm open. Price is a concern tho. :/<P>oldtimer: Cold starting: Push pedal to floor, release, turn key. Warm starting: press pedal 1/3 down, turn key.<P>The thing amazed me last night when I went to start it up. (first time of the day). I floored it, turned the key and wham! It started right up. I damn near passed out. I left the key on a few seconds so I figured that was why. When I went to start it back up after shoping (engine hot/warm) it was still a bit** to start. Even after leaving the key on for a few seconds.<P>What I've had to do to start it now is turn key, crank engine and press pedal down until it starts. Most of the time the pedal is almost to the floor before it starts.<P>I the day after installing starter, I removed airhorn and replaced plastic float with brass one, reset everything to spec. Level @ 16/32, Drop @ 1 inch. Accel pump @ 15/32 from air breather gasket. Rod is set right, Primary is 5/32, secondary is 5/32 (book has pri @ 5/32, sec @ 9/16). Since I replaced the float & reset everything the car has excellent city driving manners. No stumble, no stalling, no hessitation.<P>Any ideas???<P>Idle is 850-900 in park, Vac @ idle in park is almost 20, idle screws out I'd say about 3.5 turns. It's set for highest vac.<P>Many Thanks to Everyone Here!!!<P>Scott<BR>

[NTX5467]

Not sure what carb is on the motor, but the hard start when cold (after an overnight sitting) could be the well plugs leaking down if it is a QuadraJet 4bbl. This is a normal situation of sorts that any QJet repair person should be able to fix. In any event, make sure the correct carb to manifold gasket is on the motor.<P>The hot restart situation could relate to the transition from winter gas to spring gas formulations. The winter gas tends to evaporate a little quicker in weather warmer than it was formulated for.<P>The "press it to the floor" strategy relates to letting the cold engine benefit from whatever automatic choking is needed for the engine to start and then run at fast idle upon initial startup. If the engine is warm, the 1/3 throttle strategy works fine.<P>It sounds like the problems are more fuel related than ignition or starter related.<P>The type of float whould have no relation to the problem as long as they are not "heavy" and set to specs. <P>What kind of condition is the fuel filter in? The fuel line routing too close to a heat producer (manifolds or block)? Kinks or collapsed hoses in the basic fuel line itself (all the way to the back at the tank)? Current condition of the fuel pump?<P>Hope this has been of some help.

[Guest]

It's a 350-2. Rochester 2GV #7041142<P>The blast plastic well inserts aren't perfect as I kinda ran some lines down them on the first rebuild trying to pry them out.<P>It's Southern CA, I dunno what gas they're using at the moment. Temps have been 40-70's The last tank was Shell 92oct. I alternate between Cheveron & Shell. The engine does not like Cheveron but I only have 2 gas cards. :-/<P>The choke system is working quite well since I reset everything. The only thing that still fails to operate is the fast idle cam. It fails to come up as the choke opens. Also when I have to pumps it to start in the morning it screws with the fast idle cam and it drops to low step. I manually trip it to high step tho. (which is a pain)<P>The 1/3 used to work, but fails now. 3/4 works sometimes, othertimes it's floored before it starts. This happens both hot & cold.<P>I figured it was more fuel/carb related. The rubber hose connecting the pump to the carb is scored and will be replaced tomorrow, along with a clear inline filter placed in-between. (any brand recomendations?)<P>I try to keep the hose from touching the manifold but the metal pipe that connects to the carb is bent down a bit.<P>Yesterday I went out and retightend the airhorn screws, they were loose but I figured as much as the first tighen is never enough. It failed to help the situation much.<P>I have no way to test the fuel pump. No way I'm paying $50 for something I use maybe twice. [g]<P>Many Thanks Guys!!!<P>Scott<BR>