Axle Seals

[Guest]

Okay, I know that I've had a bad axle seal on the driver's side since I bought the car in May. I would like to get this repaired in the coming months, but have a question regarding axle styles and mechanics. Reading the Chilton's and Haynes, I see that Buick manf. axles have the bearing pressed on the axle, and it appears that changing the seal also requires the old bearing to be removed and then replaced with a new one I am assuming. Anyone know if the '73 225 used these style axles and if so, do I need to be more carefule about who does the work( this is a project that I am choosing not do do myself). I read a post( I think don55's in grisby's unethical shop thread ) about a 67 that he had trouble with a shop and the axles, and this is why I ask. I was originally thinking of just going to the local PepBoys, but now and not sure. Any info/advice on this subject would be greatly appreciated.<BR>Thanks<P>------------------<BR>1973 Electra 225-2dr.<BR>93,000 mi. and on its way to 100,000 quick<BR>My poor exhaust tip is crying out for some air shocks <BR>And now,Working Cruise Control!

[Guest]

Okay, postin this to get it back up on the list. There must be at least one person here who can give some advice on this subject.

[NTX5467]

If the bearing is pressed onto the axle shaft itself, instead of being pressed into the axle housing, then a hydraulic press and suitable fixtures will be necessary to remove and replace the bearing on the axle shaft. I don't have a GM parts book here to look at to see just how everything is on that particular axle, but am speaking from generalities of how that type of situation is usually done.<P>I would recommend you find someone who has experience on this type of situation to do the work. I would not let some chain store do it as their employees typically are younger than the car. That would mean an experienced private shop with some older (typically) mechanics that know what they are doing. Might also include an older Buick dealer with technicians who worked on those cars when they were newer. The other situation is finding the necessary parts.<P>There might not be anything really hard in doing the job, but from what you mention, it's not the same as on a late model Chevy pickup, for example, which people are used to dealing with. If you can find a genuine GM/Buick service manual for that vehicle, it will probably detail how to perform the repair (with illustrations).<P>NTX5467

[NTX5467]

I checked the '75 and prior GM/Buick parts book last night. The "build sequence" of parts is mentioned is the way the intermediate series (i.e., Skylark) from 1970-75 builds up--outer retainer, seal, bearning, and inner retainer (from outer to inner). In that situation, the bearing and inner retainer would have to be removed to get to the seal.<P>On the full-size cars from '71-'75 (maybe '76 also, but the book stopped at '75), it is different. The build sequence illustrated is--outer retainer, bearing, inner retainer, and seal from outer to inner. In this situation, the seal is on the inside of the bearing and would probably remain pressed into the axle housing when the axle/bearing assembly is removed. In that case, the bearing assembly would not need to be pressed off of the axle to change the seal.<P>Naturally, to remove the axle, the cover on the center section would have to be removed and the inner c-clips removed to get the axle out. The outer bearing retainer would also have to be unbolted from the axle housing somewhere in that sequence. <P>The full size rear axle is not quite what I expected it to be in the way the outer bearing and grease seal are configured.<P>I wanted to provide that update.<P>NTX5467

[Guest]

Thank you very much for the info. Much apprecitated.

[Guest grisby]

73electra225, I believe if memory serves me right that NTX5467 is correct on how the large B,C bodied vehicle axles are assembled. On my GS I took the axle out since it was pressed on and took it to a local NAPA where an "older-experienced" gentleman did it for me. When I went to Pep Boys for the bearings and seals they kind of looked at the computer funny and said they never seen a setup like that and said the bearing was unavailable.--Hence I went to NAPA- they had the part and when I asked about a place to do it- they referred me to one of their other stores in the area that has a machine shop etc. <BR>I have a 72 shop manual- I will check it tonite and let you know what I find regarding the setup. But I will bet money that what NTX5467 is saying is 100% correct and in that note you could most likely do it your self if you have the time and tools.<P>bill g<BR><p>[This message has been edited by grisby (edited 03-09-2001).]

[Guest grisby]

73Electra225--Ok I checked my shop manual for a 72 Buick, it lists the different type of axles such as B and O, which are the press on bearings and then the G,K axles which has the C clips, and unfortunately it doesnt state what is on what vehicle. I know the Skylarks have the B,O type with the press ins. I am willing to bet my leaky tranny that you have the C clip style in your 73 and that you can do in your driveway on a warm day or in a heated garage this time of year(You be suprised how hot a kerosene blower can get) hope this helps- sorry I couldnt be more specific. Good luck.<BR>bill g

[Guest]

Bill, thanks for all info. Sorry I didn't reply sooner but I was on break from school. Finally bit the bullet and bought air shocks. Only took about 8-10 hours of lying on the ground to put them in, mostly figuring where to route the air lines as they barely give you enough. Oh yeah, I went to Harry's this past Monday too and finally got 3 more road wheels for $6.50 a piece!! Found one by an Estate Wagon, and two more lying next to an Oldsmobile wagon. I love that place!<P>------------------<BR>1973 Electra 225-2dr.<BR>94,000 mi. and on its way to 100,000 quick<BR>The exhaust tip cries no more! Air Shocks are cool! Duals, I see you in my future. <BR>And now,Working Cruise Control!