Guest Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 Headlights only come on if I bear to the left on knob when attempting to use headlights. The contacts are supposed to rub on the brass strips on the sides of the switch. The tips of the contacts may have worn down over time and only touch when pushed closer. Anyone come up with simple fix? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Best Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 I check Chevy's of the 40's , think same switch was used for both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob H Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 Sent a couple of 1939 light switch photos that might help you understand how it is put together. The terminal at the end of the wire has the contact built into it - the little round button off the side of the terminal near its end. The housing that the terminal snaps into has spring built into it that maintains pressure on the contact strip that moves when you pull the switch handle. The construction of the switch resembles a cheap post WW II tin toy and it may be coming apart. Bob H 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 I had my suspicions when I removed the switch and found flat toothpicks under all the springs presumably to increase spring pressure to get worn tips to contact sides of slide assembly. Thinking I may have to braze additional material onto the contacts individually, but was hoping someone had found a bit quicker/easier fix...yeah, which hand got filled first? Oh well, I guess I will find a jewlers torch to braze my contacts from spare switch and quit whinning! Thanx 4 input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 25, 2018 Share Posted November 25, 2018 (edited) Finally found a somewhat subtle solution to the problem of consistent contact inside the 1939 headlight switch. When I took the switch out of the dash I noticed the plug on the end of the wire was essentially a formed square tube with a seam that had been bent down with the seam overlapping instead of meeting to form a straight edge. When I used a small flat screwdriver to force the edges back to straight I decided to bend the edges to form a low pointed peak which increased the pressure from the springs holding the contacts against the brass slide inside. Hopefully the photo will show the ends clearly enuff to make the text easier to understand. It worked for me. PS this is a photo of my spare switch. The installed switch was totally cleaned and reconditioned and still did not connect. Edited November 25, 2018 by Guest (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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