Cheap but does it do anything ?

[padgett]

http://www.acturbo.com/ Wonder if the gain was the result of all the mods they mention.

[Guest]

Very Cheap! I'll order one & try it, (not much to loose).

2-seater, did you ever try out the fan? looks similar?

Just think, with the electric turbo, the gas magnets, the timing advance kit, the vapor injection, the tornado(piece of metal thing), and the spark amplfier. The Reatta should put out around 300 H.P. and get 45 M.P.G.

Believe it? if you do, I have a nice piece of mountain top property for sale here in south TX.

[Guest EDBS0]

I can see the benefit of the "Universal Electric Turbo Blower". they go on to say "We do not claim for this to be a turbocharger or supercharger (which create large amounts of pressure). This device helps to overcome the inefficiencies of intakes (bends in hosing, restrictions in the air filter, etc)." Their explanation appears to be simple straightforward and not overstated.

I also fully accept their assertion regarding the "Custom Cold Air Intake" I have DIY CAIs on a couple of my cars With K&N 9" cones and the seat of the pantz dyno can detect a large improvement. They make no claims as to increased HP. On my old SHO and SC 3800 Riv CAI made huge very noticeable positive increases.

I am not too enthusiastic about the "Timing Kit". They claim it will trick the computer to believing the air is colder than it actually is (and it will) and therefore running the engine richer. Here is where I have some problems. If there is more fuel than oxygen to burn then it will just be dumped out the exhaust and the only benefit will be a lighter wallet. My second belief is that our computers advance the timing to the point where the engine just starts to knock and then backs off just a smidge. If this is true you already are at max advance I noticed that their comment was interesting. "Comments: This modification is always a subject for a good debate. We verified using Auto Tap that the resistor makes the PCM think the car is taking in air with a temperature of 57 °F. We have no Auto Tap data to support the claim that timing is increased as much as 1.5 degrees. Those figures are based on the claims of many people who use this modification at the track." <span style="font-weight: bold">IF</span> there was an increase in timing then the Auto Tap would have found it and having not found it, it therefore is not there. Understand.

Summary. CAI should be done first. Once done there will be no reason for the Turbo Blower as there will be no "inefficiencies of intakes (bends in hosing, restrictions in the air filter, etc)" to overcome.

Side note: I am looking at Holley Power Shot Air Filters They appear to be an improved K&N type filter with more flow due to deeper pleats and different side sealing and more dirt being filtered out. . And best yet padgett the blue will compliment your car!

[Guest Buick Mike]

All that thing will do is be a restriction. The only way to overcome any inefficiencies in the air inlet system is to apply pressure (boost). There is no way that little fan could push just the normally required amount of air let alone enough to even slightly pressurize the system.

In a recent issue of Car Craft someone wrote into the "Ask Marlin" column asking about electric turbochargers. I don't remember the specifics, but the power requirement of an electric fan capable of doing any good at all was totally out of the realm of what could be put in an automobile.

Mike

[Guest]

I never connected the inline blower, it is in place and just sucks air through it. I didn't feel it would be of any real benefit but I may just hotwire it and see if air flow readings change at all. It's worth a try as I got it for free and is rated at 230 cfm, about what our car needs full throttle at 5k rpm. It would have no capability of applying pressure as the tolerances are way too loose.

I investigated one of those electric turbos (TurboPac?) a few years ago. They are only deigned for short bursts and they are effective. They use a true compressor section from a turbo but the power demands are high. I seem to remember they had some sort of electrical box with heavy cables and possibly taking three phase power from the alternator which would require wiring inside the alternator. The biggest turn off was the cost. Several thousand dollars, about 1.5 times the cost of a Roots type blower like used on the S/C cars.

If you want advanced timing, put it in the chip. Trying to fool the computer may work, but I would think the results may be unpredicatble. I had extra timing dialed into the premium fuel chip I bought, and it could probably use even more, as I see no knock or timing retard. Part of this may be due to the somewhat rich fuel calibration. Being rich is safe, but it does hurt performance somewhat. The richer mix cools the combustion process plus I suspect the 160 T'stat may play a part in this as well. It has no trouble going into closed loop, and the O2 sensor is new and active, which leads me to believe the fuel map is what is set a little rich. Generally in the .9 volt range at fuel throttle, which uses the fuel map and not the O2 sensor. Padgett would have a better idea as to the relationship and this is mostly conjecture on my part.