No spark from coil

[no1parfive]

In recent posts concerning my "won't start" situation, discovered no spark after making a spark test on coil. I get power to the primary terminals on the coil when cranking, but no spark on output wire to distributor.  Replaced coil and wire along with other components mentioned in previous posts and still no spark, any suggestions?

[MazingHL]

HEP sensor tested/replaced?

[Reaper1]

Yeah, he's said he's done that.

 

Does the replacement coil have the correct primary side resistance?

[no1parfive]

Could not find what the correct primary side resistance should be in my service manual, do you know?

[TwinCamFan]

When you crank the motor, does the tachometer move at all? The starter is only tuning the motor about 200RPMS but the tach should move some.  Couple things about the HEP/Hall Effect/distributor pick up and just about any other name that has been used. I know the terminology police are lurking nearby...  If the tach does NOT move when  cranking, you still have an issue with the HEP. I've seen two things after replacing these.  One was bad right outta the box, hard to believe but can happen.  The other time one of the female recieving pins (on the engine harness side) inside the plugs had loosened and wasnt't making good contact.  I had to ease it shut with a jewlers style screwdriver .  There are 6 pins, check them all if the tach doesn't move.  If the tach DOES move, have you verified that your camshaft is spinning when it cranks?  The belts can fail by losing teeth so the crank sprocket has nothing to grab but the belt still *looks* intact on casual inspection.

[no1parfive]

Will check out everything you specified.  Have question, would any of these conditions prevent output voltage (no spark) of coil even though I have 12 volt power at the primary terminals on the coil during starting?

[Reaper1]

Yes. If the timing belt is snapped/stripped it might not be spinning the auxiliary shaft, which in turn would spin the distributor.