How can I tarnish brass quickly?

[Guest]

I'm about to install a shiny brass item on an otherwise nicely "patinated" (as the British say) brass era car. It looks 'way too new and very out of place. Any suggestions on a way to fast-tarnish the brass so as to blend it in better with the rest of the car?

[Guest]

If the brass isn't coated, you probably could try heating it just a little with a propane torch. Be careful not to overdue the heating.

Better yet, why don't you just get busy and polish the other brass to match the new????

[Guest]

Thanks for the suggestion. And I fully expected your question too! The thing is, all the rest of the car, with chipped and faded paint, tarnished brightwork, well-worn upholstery, used tires, and the grease and oil on the running gear all look like they belong together, and I'd just rather enjoy it and drive it as is.

[Guest Randy Berger]

I almost hesitate to give this reply. Click on the following website:

http://www.historicgames.com/glossary.html

and look for button-pisser.

YFAM, Randy Berger

[Guest]

It sounds interesting. I have to ask, what kind of car?

P.S. I find the fastest way to tarnish brass is to spend two days polishing it to go on a tour, only to have it pour rain the first day!

[Guest]

Thanks for your suggestion Randy ? I might have tried it if I hadn't just heated, tarnished, and already mounted the previously-shiny bits.

The car is a 1906 Orient Buckboard, single-cylinder, friction drive, tiller steering, wooden frame, 2-passenger, 600 lbs, $400 new cost, with a top speed of 20 mph (twice what the one modest brake is good for).

Almost every piece and some of the finishes are original to 1906. The car was slapdash "restored" in the mid-'50s, and bears the plaques from several northeastern US vintage events in 1955-1958. It went to England in the '60s, then to western Canada in the mid-'70s. I've had it for about 7 years. We're in Edmonton, Canada, about 300 miles north of Montana.

I'm preserving it from two viewpoints ? one for all the 1906 bits and finishes it still has, and secondly as an example of early vintaqe auto "restoration" practices and standards.

It's a pretty good runner, all things considered.

The bit I added tonight was a home-made license plate. In our province, Alberta, official license plates were not issued until 1912. Prior to that, a motorist was issued a registration number, and instructed to affix that number to the rear of the car. Joe Morris, the fellow who had number "1" was a bit of a character, and stuck a broomhandle in a buggy-whip holder mounted on the back of his car. The police objected, but when his case came to trial, the judge ruled in Joe's favour.

My choice was a 6.5" x 13" slab of 1/4" leather with simple block brass house numbers (digits 1-9-0-6) screwed into it. The leather plate mounts onto, and covers, the street plate for when I take the car down to our local historic park.

[RoadsterRich]

Down here in Florida we just set it out back for a few days and voila virtually instant patina.

Rich

[Peter J.Heizmann]

Hi, folks.

My experience in the foundry business for too many years than I care to recall mandates my vote on the subject: "Just let them oxidize naturally". Occasionally, one might simply take off rings/wedding bands, and, rub the part whenever you have a free minute.

Like a few folks above mentioned, I concur, it won't take long at all to weather (oxidize). The fastest method I can suggest is don't affix them to the car. Let the pieces out in the weather for awhile (rain, sun, etc.)

Regards, Peter J.

[Guest]

I have worked with art metal for several years and have applied chemical patinas to non-ferrous metals. You have to be very careful not to over-treat the area leading to a very dark or green color. You may want to experiment on a cheap piece of plumbing hardware to get the match you want. You can always clean the metal with brasso, start over with a watered down solution, or leave it on for half the time to check results. Be sure to protect the paint if the hinge is already installed (tape, Vaseline.)

Here is a link I found on a web search:

http://www.patinas.com/

You should be able to find similar solutions at any good jewelry supply store. Do not clean the old brass it looks better original?