How do you use this? Zoo/ A Radiator Purger / Done

[ArticiferTom]

Looking for instruction info on proper use of this Zoo from Kalamazoo gun .

Edited July 6, 2016 by ArticiferTom
updated (see edit history)

[Grimy]

Looks like a pretty good vintage cooling system backflush tool, better than my 1930 "Purgo" (name is half the reason I bought it 45 yrs ago).  Insert the taper into a radiator hose; taper accommodates almost all automotive diameters.  Lever probably opens and closes water flow.  Likely you can attach a garden hose next to the air fitting.  Use the lever off-and-on to give blasts of water with supplemental air pressure.

[ArticiferTom]

Yes, just did some searching and found they still make similar guns . There is inlet on right and taper tip come off with garden hose threads on both . I have capped heater hoses and a partial block radiator was thinking of direct hookup to heater hose tap, leaving stat in. To force water out radiator top hose, removed  from block on my 31 Plymouth 4 cyl. engine . Then removing stat to flush block . My concern was water pump .

[Grimy]

I'm not very familiar with 4-cyl Plymouths, but the way I've always used my Purgo is:

1.  Backflush block by inserting tool into upper water neck with radiator hose attached (NO thermostat in place) with block drains open (fittings removed) and lower hose disconnected.

2.  Backflush radiator by inserting tool into lower radiator neck (outlet) with radiator hose attached, radiator cap on, and some long deflection hose attached to upper radiator neck so as not to hose yourself and your engine.

Personally I would NOT use this tool to backflush a perhaps more fragile heater core,  A Prestone flushing tee (do they still sell those?) attached a garden hose with a shut off.  But run straight flow first before "blasting" with off/on jets of water. 

[ArticiferTom]

Thanks , mostly what I was thinking on block . But can not take the very short lower radiator hose off .There is no heater core just stubs for future install . Thinking for using this to inject radiator and outlet block . Radiator is biggest concern know you can see blockages on this scan , only right side is passing heat .

Edited July 6, 2016 by ArticiferTom
added scan (see edit history)

[Grimy]

Given the depth of the clogs as reflected in the scan, I'd be inclined to remove the radiator for a deep cleaning.  While radiator is out, backflush the block after removing core plugs, if any.

[ArticiferTom]

Yeah, I'm hoping it is all top debris . If that does not work then it will be removal . This is modern type rad installed in mid 90's when restored by previous . The mid bottom black spot is license plate ,note .

Edited June 11, 2016 by ArticiferTom
add note (see edit history)

[Grimy]

Since you think it's top debris, I'd remove radiator and place it upside down in a plastic barrel, then backflush with the tool.  While the radiator is out, backflush block with 'stat removed and block drains open. 

 

That also makes it important to use a filter when the radiator is reinstalled, to catch debris coming out of the block, which is the source of the clog material.  I use a woman's stocking, preferring "knee-highs" which are heavier gauge, about $6 for 10 pair (20 stockings) at a drugstore (yeah, they look at me funny at the cash register).  Insert the toe of a stocking into the upper radiator neck with a blunt handle like screwdriver.  Fold selvage (excess) over the outside of the neck, then install upper hose.  All the water (and debris from the block) flow through the stocking.  After 100 miles or so, drain and save a gallon of coolant (or enough to prevent spills), remove stocking and wash out under a hose, then reinstall stocking, hose, and coolant.  You will amazed at the amount of crud and corruption trapped by the stocking--which would otherwise be accumulating in your freshly cleaned radiator.  Each time you do this, the amount of crud captured will give you a feel for how long the interval should be for the next stocking cleaning.  The intervals will get longer and longer as the rust dislodged by heating/cooling cycle diminishes.  I run stockings in all my vintage cars, all the time. 

 

If you use a chemical flush with radiator in place, install a stocking FIRST to prevent crud dislodged from block from clogging radiator further.  But if a stocking has been exposed to chemicals, replace it before adding new coolant.

[ArticiferTom]

Thanks All . Coolant system repaired . The Zoo did a good job of cleaning debris . You can see by scan 6-25  more heat is passing in other locations . Still was not the improvement I wanted . I pulled radiator , looked to side with mirror and saw the problem as calcium build up . Crusty deposits of it over to ports . I laid flat and add CLR full strength 4 jugs just covered coils then ran a brush , flexible soft steel bristle over coils every hour ,for about eight . Was afraid of using stronger or going longer as pic shows crust came off. Only surface calcium remained . The 7-6 dated scan show the improvement ,as heat is all across top now . Other scan not posted show inlet temp at 153*F and radiator outlet temp. as 115*F .

  Grimy, I did add stocking to upper hose and even on second run of half hour ,it picked up debris . Guess you call that a good hack today . More info on a water pump issue is in Dodge threads .

[ArticiferTom]

Another pic , Zoo and CLR thumbs up.

[ArticiferTom]

A before and after or radiator coils . A tuff one to photo and light .