Good shop in Myrtle Beach?

[Guest]

I'm getting ready to drive my completely original 63 Buick Wildcat to Myrtle Beach next month. It needs a valve job really bad. Is there any reputable Buick shops in that area that I can take my heads to so they can be redone by someone who knows what the heck they are doing? <P> Also, I read somewhere that if one of the exhaust pipes is making a sucking sound that one or more of the exhaust valves are not completely closing. Is this correct? And are the rockers on my nailhead held in by pressed in studs or threaded? If they are pressed in, with only 70,700 miles on the clock, could they be slightly pushed out by now? <P> OK an d last question.. Is it possible to get my oil pan off without removing the entire motor? My oil pump seems to be lacking these days and the oil light stays on below 1500 rpms.. IF I can get it off, I want to replace all the bearings as well. Let me know if this is possible and any problem areas I may encounter.. this is my forst Nailhead motor. I don't want to mess it up.. <P>Thanks People!!!

[Bill Stoneberg]

I have a question for you...<BR>Why dont you pull your engine and do everything ? If you want to do a valve job and replace the bearing, it probably makes sense to go ahead and do rings too. I would.<BR>Just my opinion.<BR>Bill

[Guest]

I don't have the money at this time to replace everything.. I just need the car to get me to Myrtle Beach and be at least healthy enough to haul a trailer. The way it's looking now, I may need it to haul a whole car. I also have gotten my hands on some literature which tells me how to rebuild the entire engine IN THE CAR! That makes me very happy since I don't have an engine hoist. It shows you how to even replace the rope oil seals in the rear main cap without removing the crank. I figure new bearings and a valve job will be sufficient enough for me to get to South Carolina without any trouble. Then later on, I will go thru it with a fine tooth comb and will be able to do a nearly complete restoration.

[Guest]

I can only imagine the pain that your back is going to be in trying to rebuild the engine from underneath the car. <P>I agree with Bill. Pull the engine. If money is a problem consider just doing what has to be done and waiting on the rest. You will be much better off in the long run going through the entire engine at once. You need to remember, you have that rather large crossmember under your engine that is going to constantly be in your way. Try to hook up with a local car club. Someone will have a hoist you can borrow, or just rent one!<P>Having just finished a engine rebuild in my car I shudder at the mere thought of what you are proposing. But if you can do it and stay sane, my hat is off to you!!<P>As far as the getting the pan off you will have to look under your car and see. The oil pump sits in the deep end and the crank usually ends around 2-3 inches below the block. Usually you will need to remove the motor mount bolts and jack up the engine a few inches. But in the case of your engine I am not positive.

[Guest]

I don't think anyone has answered part of your original question yet. The rockers on your nailhead are not on studs at all. They are mounted on hollow shafts that run the length of the head, held on with bolted down stands. They are nonadjustable, so whatever head shop you use better know what they are doing to get the correct deck height on the valves during the head job. Also, the rockers are aluminum except for the small steel inserts which actually hit the valves, these look like small nails. (Thus, the name nailhead?) If you have never had the valve covers off one of these engines, be prepared for a shock, as it will look upside down to you, with pushrods coming through the heads BELOW the valves.<P>Good Luck,<BR>Boyd Shuler<BR>Clemson '76 (How 'bout them TIGERS)