Body Work 2!

[Guest Hal Davis (MODEL A HAL)]

Rick,<P>I have all four fenders and splash shields in prime. The fronts are a 3-4 months old. The rears and splash shields are maybe 3-4 weeks old. They all need a final wet sanding and then whatever we decide to do next. Surely, it has been long enough for all the shrinking to be done. Is it OK to wet sand now?<P>I fully intend to paint this car myself, but it sure is comforting to know there's someone that can bail me out if need be. <P>Ron,<P>This ones taking a few seconds to load, huh? Do you want to close this one and start Body Work 3?

[ronbarn]

YES - Bodywork 3 coming for your viewing pleasure!

[Guest Hal Davis (MODEL A HAL)]

Hey Rick, are you out there?<P>I have a new neighbor that has a good bit of auto painting experience. He's trying to talk me into using urethane on these fenders, instead of acrylic enamel. He claims its easy to use (also says he will lend me a really good gun and show me how to use it). Says I can put a urethane primer over my lacquer primer, so I don't have to back up and regroup. I fully intend to use the laquer on the body, but what do you think about this suggestion for the fenders? Is this the same or similar to what Martinsr was suggesting earlier? One big plus is that this guy lives down the street and can help if I run into problems. He said he doesn't mind doing the painting, as long as I do the sanding. I am open minded as long as I don't have to undo what I have already done. If that's the case, then I will continue on the path I've started down. What are your thoughts?

[Guest]

Hal, I think you are on the right track! The Lac primer isn't a problem, other than being that weak link I told you about. One thing you could do is to give it a REAL good sanding, blocking would be the best. And remove all the lac primer you can, you have to sand it anyway right? You might as well sand it real good and just leave it where there are any imperfections that it was really needed. (though the urethane would do a much better job). Remember if you are going to wet sand them...let them dry out GOOD. But you don't have to wet sand them at all, it is messy and the primer absorbs the water. You will be sanding with about 180 paper so it should sand very easy. Have fun! It sounds like you lucked out with your new buddy! But remember there are a lot of people with who talk the talk without walking the walk. Do some little things first. I can't help but think of the 1923 Buick Roadster in a garage nearby that is all but ruined because a new neighbor told the guy to have the chassis on this nice original car SANDBLASTED! (we're talking chassis, not frame!) because he wanted to "help" him restore it... the new neighbor is now an old neighbor who dosen't live here, and the Buick that his Grandfather bought new is in the garage in horable shape.<P>------------------<BR>buickfam@aol.com<BR>Life long Buick Fan.<BR>1965 Skylark H/T<BR>1965 Gran Sport Convertible<BR>1948 Chevy Pickup with 401 Buick.

[Guest]

Rather than wet sanding primers I use the fine grade 3M fibre sanding pads. They look similar to a scouring pad but are much finer in grit. They are good to use in between coats of primer or for scuffing when a piece has set for a while before overcoating. The advantage to using them is that they do not load up and are fast to use. Then I just blow away the sanding dust, lightly wipe with ultra fast dry reducer, and tack rag. Your ready to go much easier and faster than wet sanding. <P>Hope this saves your arm some work...<BR>EAS.