Wheel Stud Replacement ('25)

[MikeC5]

Has anyone had any success replacing studs on front wheel hubs (disc wheels)? I just discovered that my right front hub had a cracked outer bearing race (but still in one piece). It also appears that the race did a lot of rotating relative to the hub since it was a loose fit. Luckily, a front hub is one of the few spares that came with the car and it looks decent. However, the 50/50 chance of have the same thread direction on the studs as the bad hub didn't go in my favor. While I could just put left hand threads on the right side and it would be serviceable, I hate to do that... The studs appear to be pressed in which is still a common practice so I want to swap out the right hand studs into the good hub. I do have a 12 ton press but would welcome any tips for doing this. Should I heat the area around the stud first?

Also, I was trying to remove the (good) inner race from this same ruined hub and found tapping them out with a punch ain't going to do it. Did they heat up the hubs to replace these? I don't recall seeing anything like that in the MIM or operator's manual.

[60ch]

Mike, I am not familiar with your specific year hub but i can give you a few things to watch out for. When studs are pressed in they are swaged and the shoulder of the stud directly under the threads is the point that the pressure is applied to. This means that you may have a slightly larger diameter on the threaded end of the stud than at the other end that has the "rivet" head on it. If you attempt to press the stud out you can possibly open the hole up and mess up the hub holes. This is especially bad if you have a pressed steel brake drum attached to the hub with the swaged wheel studs. There are tools that are essentially an end mill with a hollow center. The tool fits over the threaded stud and cuts aways the swaged surface so that when the stud is pressed out the hub it comes out with minimal distortion to the hole. Model A Ford suppliers have them for the ford hub/brakedrum assemblies but they are probably not your size. You just need to be aware and may want to find an automotive machine shop. I do not believe that an 8 ton press will swage wheel studs properly. The last thing you need is to have your wheel studs turning with the lug nuts while you are try to change a flat tire. Terry

[Guest 1930]

I replace studs pretty often, place the backside of the hub onto a good firm surface and whap the stud hard, straight and quickly with a hammer, of course have a nut on the end to assure you do not damage the threads. No heat just a good hard whack, put the stud onto your new hub by placing it thru the hole and tightening the lug.

While Terry is more cautious I have never had a problem. Make sure you use a big hammer

You could also use the press but its not necessary and quicker with a big hammer.

I believe you will however need the press for the hub, find a socket similar size and press out the old and press in the new, nothing to it, dont use heat.

Edited October 6, 2012 by 1930 (see edit history)

[MikeC5]

Thanks guys!

[MikeC5]

Well you were right Terry, those studs were swaged but good. I did manage to press out the right hand thread ones without too much trouble (although my 12 ton press probably broke more of sweat than anything else I've done with it). Pressing out the left hand studs on the good hub went well too except for the last stud. It just would not budge and the stud began leaning to one side. I cut the stud off close to the hub flange and then drilled it out to 1/2 inch (largest drill I had). Still wouldn't budge with sledge hammer or press. I installed a small hacksaw and cut as far as I dared without going into the hub. Still no good. I finally had to carefully grind the swage area away (die grinder with burr) and finally got it to press out! Lucky I wasn't trying to re-use that one! I noticed the holes in the hub had what appeared to be shear torn areas. I really couldn't tell if these were caused by pressing out the stud or happened during punching the hole (if they were punched). I also found that interference fit was around 0.01 to 0.015 which kind of surprised me. In any case, installing the RH threads was easy in comparison. Those buggers ain't going anywhere. If I had to do this again I think I would look for a good replacement hub...

[Guest 1930]

Should have got a bigger hammer

[MikeC5]

I was using a 10 lb sledge but it's not like you can really take a full swing (I'm not that accurate)... The little Harbor Freight cheapie, bottle jack press has been a good investment.

[Guest 1930]

Just kidding, I know little to nothing about your set-up, dont even know how the studs are arranged. Just general info experience I was offering. Glad that you got them though

[MikeC5]

O.K. now I've run into another roadblock.. How to get the inner bearing race out of the hub? I thought well I'll just machine up a plug of the appropriate diameter and press it out except there's no way to get it in behind the race; the opening is too small on the OD end! I tried using a 3 jaw gear puller with a bar across the push on and no luck (it slips off before any serious force is developed). I tried heating but I think the heat transfers too readily into the race so they expand the same amount. I could try and split the race but I need to get it out without damage to re-use it in another hub. The only thing I can figure is making a plug and cutting into a pie so the pieces can be assembled inside the hub, then a smaller diameter plug that goes through the OD side to push... There's got to be a better way.. Oh and I did try with a punch and it just won't budge.