Machiner 55 Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 (edited) With all of the discussion regarding the body isolators and control arm repair, has anyone ever repaired the holes through which the control arm struts are connected? In the attached photos you can see that those areas are weakening by rusting away. In advance, thanks for any suggestions. (All suggestions except "scrap it".) Photos of previous repairs would be great. I just noticed that, even though the frame is labeled properly, the picture order is not.L.H. is the drivers side and R.H. is the passenger side. Edited September 8, 2012 by Machiner 55 Explain photo orientation . (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-a-n-i-e-l Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 Original specs are needed. But cut the cancers out and welding a new piece. In my search for a subframe I cam accross a brand new one for $700, so if you are not doing the work yourself it may be cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 89 Maui Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 I am replacing my rear suspension, due to my original was heavily rusted. Upon cleaning my replacement, I found that the drivers side strut tower was rusted badly and the mounting hole for the strut was eaten away by rust. I called a local welding shop and the first thing they said is they do not weld on any part on a car. I told them that my rear suspension was not on the car and I tood the rear suspension to their shop and he is cutting out the rust on the strut tower and welding in a new piece to match the passengers side.I mentioned this because I am not sure how the cradle is attached to the frame (bolted or welded), if it's bolted then the cradle can be removed and they can replace the rusted hole with a new metal welded onto the cradle. I was charged $150 for my replacement and I will now have a solid strut tower.For what it's worth.Woody Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machiner 55 Posted September 8, 2012 Author Share Posted September 8, 2012 Daniel and Woody,Thanks for responding to this post. Daniel, this sub-frame came from a car that is no longer of this earth (at least not in it's original form). I dismantled an '88 and this is one of the parts, among a thousand others, I thought I'd refurbish. At some point I will post some photos of the carcass and it's being carried away to it's final resting place. (I also need to get with the board moderator and get my moniker changed.) I'd also like to do as some on this board have done. That is, build up the frame assembly with new isolators, mounts, engine and transmission etc. as I think you once did. Buying new is out of the question as I am a poor, but honest working man.Woody, this frame has been removed from the car and is currently leaning against my garage wall, much to my wife's dismay. Yesterday I took it to the local car wash to try and clean it up a bit. What I really want to do is perform the welding work myself but I need to see what the holes look like when it first came out of the fab. shop in Lansing. Also, if on the off chance someone has design drawings with dimensions, that would be even better still.The L.H. side looks like there is a hole in the frame with another piece of steel welded in behind it which may have originally had a fluted hole. The R.H. side, well...Getting late, gotta head off to work another 12 hr. shift.John F. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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