Need some sage advice/help

[Guest Kingsley]

My '89, 107K, has developed a transmission fluid leak at the point, drive side, that the axle shaft enters the transmission through the side panel cover.

The leak was not around the point at which the six 10MM hex nuts hold the side cover fast but is coming past the seal around the shaft to which the axle mates.

Everthing is now loose with the axle withdrawn from the case. Axle still in position in the knuckle, just pulled back to expose the seal.

Anyone been down this road that might give me some pointers as I go forward. First have to obtain that seal and just hope that it is available. Then comes the hard part with the engine/tranny still in the car and offerring limited access to pull that seal.

Now is the time for all good Reattamen to come to the aid of their fellow Reatta owner!

Kingsley

Additional info - seal is part of kit 8203611 but is available separately as special order from dealer, one day delivery.

Will add specific seal part number in due course.

Edited May 23, 2012 by Kingsley
Add some info (see edit history)

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

Use a screw driver and pry the old seal out. Be careful not to scrape the sides where the seal sits. The seals are fairly cheap, lke 5 bucks, and available almost every where. when you go to put it in use a large socket or seal setter if you can find one that fits. It is worth the money to buy an axle socket that fits the seal to tap it back on. It will save you alot of cussing and fighting with the seal popping out when one side is almost in.

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

One other thing, if you have not you are going to want to disconnect the strut from the knuckel. It will make your life easier but also means that you will need an wheel alignment. You could also drop the lower ball joint but few people can do this without damaging the balljoint boot.

[Guest Kingsley]

Daniel - thanks. I happen to have that 36mm socket and will certainly use it to keep the seal straight as it goes in - not 'kittywampus".

I have not disconnected the knuckle from the strut but think it might be worth an alighnment to give me extra elbow room.

I promise an update for the benefit of everyone and perhap Ronnie for his Journal.

Kingsley

[harry yarnell]

How did you get the axle out of the tranny with it still attached to the knuckle?

[Vincent Vega]

Resist the urge to "tap" the seal directly with a hammer. You will dent it, and it will leak. Use a block of wood.

[Guest Kingsley]

Harry - Roger McCrone, in Tucson, AZ, www.Reattas.com, the fellow who purchased the 70 some odd parts cars and parts inventory from Phil at Speedway Auto Parts in Phoenix, worked as a mechanic at a Buick dealership in Tucson and lead me along on this. Also received some help from Jim Finn and Ronnie before starting this thread.

After taking off all of he usual stuff, the final key to it was the separation of the strut and the knuckle from the lower control arm. At the very bottom of the knuckle there is a tie rod type of bolt coming up from the bottom, with a castle nut on top. The top clearance is such that the nut will not come off complelely until the bolt breaks loose and allows the lower control arm to be pried downward. I was expecting it to be a battle to get the bolt to break loose but I was able to put leveraged pressure on the lower control arm and it came loose remarkably easy. The toothed ring for the ABS sensor is close in this area and care must be used not to damage it.

To get the axle loose from the main output shaft, I cut a piece of 2x2 pine and was able to position it nicely resting on the heads of the bolts holding the side cover on. Taking care not to damage the side pan cover, I was able to take a piece of 1/4" flat bar, taper one end of it a bit, inseret it between pine block and the frame crosspiece and get it behind the tripot (?) housing at the inward end of the axle . Just a bit of pressure loosened it and I was then able to pull the strut and knuckle, outer end of axle still in it, enough to clear the axle from the main output shaft. Then just blocked the strut to the frame so as to keep it clear and I have a fair amount of area to work getting the seal out.

It has been sugggested that I remove the knuckle from the strut and take it and the axle out of the way for additional room in which to work. As mentioned in thread above, might be worth the cost of an alignment and that decision will be dependent upon my degree of success in getting the old seal out. I have a metal scribe with a nice hook on the end of it and hopefully will be able to use it to get the seal out I will be able to put some "knocking" motion on it. Using it and an assortment of screwdrivers and the like I am hoping to get the seal out without damaging or scaring anything.

Not too concerned with getting the new seal in as I do have the 36mm socket to make sure that even presssure is applied to it. Do not want to get the seal "Kittywampus" (good ole Southern word for "crooked") as it goes in but I have plenty of experience with seals like this but just not woring in a confined area such as this.

Time will tell - job will be tackled tomorrow and I will update this.

As Daniel had mentioned, this seal -"transmission main output shaft seal" is indeed readily advailable at most FLAPS at a cost of under $10. I stopped by the Caddy/Buick dealer while in the area and they will have it for me today.

Autozone had the seal by Timken and O'Reilly by National Oil Seal.

Not having a full maintenance record on this car, at 107K I intend to drop the tranny pan, install a new filter and add new fluid.

One point - the manuals indicate that the six 10mm hex nuts which seat on studs and hold the side pan tight against the valve assembly have conical washers but that does not seem to be the case in the ones I removed. Depending upon clearances, I may add a flat washer underneath the nuts but I do not seem to have but I am fortunate that I do not have a leakage problem here.

More later and thank for all of the help received here on the Forum.

If I have generated any questions from al of the stuff up above, I will answer when next I get on the Forum.

Kingsley

www.reattaspecialtyparts.com

[Guest BobbyBubba]

Large-enough (span) Toggle, long enough bolt- could be used as a "inside the rim" seal-puller. Could also attatch a slidehammer to the bolt with a jamnut- to "tap" the seal out. Remember to THOUROUGHLY wipe out bore before new seal. I agree- modified (short) wooden table, couch, or chair leg is a good dowel for gentle insertion of seals.

[Guest Kingsley]

The old seal was out and the new one installed in 45 minutes or so. Despite the limited space, the old one came out easy after distorting one edge and pulling with vise grips. For the new one going back in. I made two short pieces of 3/4" aluminum angle, and using four of the six studs which hold the side cover in place, placed them ocross the face of the seal in two place.

Tightened them uniformly and got a nice even press in.

I am having a bit of difficulty in getting the strut back in place wih the lower control arm but will jury rig something to get it done.

I will cover this aspect later.

Kingsley '89 and '90 Coupes

Member AACA, BCA and Reatta Division

www.reattasspecialtyparts.com Not just one but TWO models of the best headlight crank and repair kits on the market today!

Edited June 4, 2012 by Kingsley
Typo (see edit history)