Guest sintid58 Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 We just purchased a 1929 Buick. I am not sure of the series can you tell looking at the pictures. Also when you start the car how do you set the timing advance and then adjust once it is running. Thanks0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 Sid, Congratulations on your new old Buick!It appears to be a 29-27 Standard with a 116" wheel base. This is strictly based on the painted headlight buckets as I cannot see the front of the car to see if there is a round bar between the frame horns. I suggest you post the firewall plate information along with the frame and engine numbers so Dave Corbin can verify model, date of mfg. etc.Throttle and spark advance are mounted around the horn button and should be clearly marked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 With today's volatile gas, I use full advance at start-up and running at speed. Starts quickly and every time. I would only retard if using the hand crank to start (heaven forbid). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sintid58 Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 Thanks also wondering what kind of oil and antifreeze to use. No experience at all with this age of car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 Sid, if the previous owner rebuilt the water pump with modern seals you can use a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze. However, most water pumps have their original graphite packing, which is prone to leaking. Hence, all your anti-freeze may leak out. Generally most of us just drain the water out of the radiator, block and water pump after the driving season is past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pat in SC Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 if the previous owner used non detergent oil, there will be some sludge that can cut loose and plug up small oil lines if you switch to detergent. By removing the valve cover you can see how clean it is inside. If it is clean, and the engine is not a leaker or oil burner, I like Mobil 1 15/50. It is formulated for racing engines using higher ZDDP levels and recommended by Mobil for classic car engines. A less expensive but high quality oil is Valvoline 20-50 racing formula non synthetic. If it is sludged up, your choice is to continue using non detergent, or cleaning out the sludge from the engine, including the oil pan, then switching to detergent. If doing a conversion to detergent oil, I would switch oil filters and change the oil more often the first few times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 John & Pat are right on.... However, just know that this car did not come with an oil filter. Instead, the large oil pan was designed to allow solids to settle and create that sludge. Using modern oil with additives to suspend solids is not recommended for engines that have not already been rebuilt. Also, never use Teflon packing as it is not intended for automobile water pump applications. The right packing is available from several sources. If you have significant leakage from your pump packing is it best to remove the old packing and inspect the shaft for pitting corrosion. With a smooth shaft & a little waterproof grease, the following packing will work best.General Purpose Packing (McMaster Carr Catalog) "Made of graphite-impregnated aramid, this style seals very well without needing to pack the rings tightly, reducing wear on the shaft and packing. For general service in water, steam, oil, brines, solvents, mild acids, and mild alkalies." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sintid58 Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 -Looking at the car today it is a 29-27. It does have what I think is a period correct Fram oil filter but I have no idea where to get a new filter for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Sid, a pic of your filter would help so we can tell you if it is original or not. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sintid58 Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 Here is a picture of my oil filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 Sid, that is a later after-market oil filter. Someone should be able to identify it to get a filter number. Worse case you can take the filter out, take some measurements, and then go to the Fram site to see if you can make a match. Is that switch to the left of the filter do anything? A kill or disconnect switch? It is not original to the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sintid58 Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 That is a cut off switch operated by a key. It shuts off all juice to the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 Sid, this looks like it might be your filter. But pls do your own research. I cannot tell you how many times I have bought the wrong part.CHEVROLET OLDS PONTIAC BUICK CHRYSLER FORD GMC NICE | eBayand it says that it takes a C3 filter. Here is one on Ebay. FRAM C3 OIL FILTER NIB | eBay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trp3141592 Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 Hi,It's my judgment that the filter canister that was installed on your car takes a Fram C-3 or C-4 insert filter. Both are readily available. The C-3 is NAPA 1010. The C-4 is NAPA # 1006. Measure the cannister or the existing filter to find which one you need.--Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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