rjfranken Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 (edited) Do I have to look up various "other" "things to do" when doing FSM directions? My intake manifold redo is sucking. Esp. the U shaped tube under the T-Boby that Aint Going Nowhere. AND the cable linkage cover apears to need removal of part of the EXH system!!! not in the book.I need to make this Gasket replacement happen this week tomorrow to go get a new job W/AT&T. I wish to hear of shortcuts please.Thanks All!This is part of my BMH block being high. All else for left for high gas usage is got to be a leaking Intake sinsce my coolant leaks in and out of it. dot dot dot.Hurry, Thanks! Edited June 26, 2011 by rjfranken (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 The throttle body and associated sensors can stay right where they are when removing the intake manifold. The one bolt that attaches the throttle cable bracket to the rear head can be a bit of a PITA, but nothing else need to be removed. The tube for the EGR must be disconnected as well as all wiring connected to the sensors. The bypass hose and heater tubes on the passengers side must be disconnected and disengaged. There are a bunch of spark plug and wiring cables that must be pulled back for clearance. The fuel rail can stay in plkace but the fuel lines need to be disconnected. Remove the alternator for better access to the wiring and hoses on the pass. side of the engine. Don't forget to disconnect the battery first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 the throttle bracket isnt an issue. Just take the 2 front bolts out and bend it out of your way. The 2 coolant hoses on it are pretty simple. I fought and fought with mine but inthe end i gently wiggled them and they popped right out. Advice, dont use the paper gasket to re-seal the lower tube. Use one of the o-rings that comes in the kit and coat it in silicone, the good stuff too nt that cheap auto store stuff. Something like hondabond (pick up at honda dealer) or a tube of sealer from your local nissan dealer (plastic tube like for a caucing gun not the squeeze tube) These manufacturers use silicone seals on their engines and make the best silicone sealers. You can put their sealers in, tighten the bolts down and let it dry then take the bolts back out and it'll never leak. theyre pretty heavy duty. I dont use anything but those tubes. Also the tube on the other end of the t-body has an o-ring on it. I didnt put one back because i never saw one in there but it does take one, learned that once it decided to leak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfranken Posted June 26, 2011 Author Share Posted June 26, 2011 Thanks all.Love that Honda Bond! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 after working on hondas and seeing what hondabond can do the auto store stuff is like play dough i wouldnt waste my money and time on it. You can throw hondabond on it while it's leaking and it'll seal. the best stuff ever Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfranken Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 (edited) I can't get the T-Body coolant pipe to lift out with the T-Body slide-not that easy. as we speak I cannot get to one bolt sitting under the EGR plate.Epilogue. The tbody coolant pipe is a 2 piece tube not a pass thru as I thought. I had to bend it to find out.Is the 90 or 91 FSM better than the 89? Edited June 29, 2011 by rjfranken (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 dont lift it. pull straight out towards the fender. You may have to stick a big screwdriver or prybar behind the t-body and pry as you wiggle it out. just be careful not to scar the mating surfaces too badly. you gota play with it wiggling and prying til it comes out. just make sure you've taken out the bolts from the lower tube and the 2 13s (1/2") from the t-body also. the lower tube bolts are kinda hard to see and you need 1/4 drive stuff to get to them. 3/8 exensions wont fit in the gap over the cross pipe. Trust me it took me a lot of fighting and cussin with it before mine popped out, age will do that. Mine goes in and out easily now. If you do have to get rough and scar the mating surfaces you can always fix it with some jb weld. put some over the crack let it dry and sand it smooth and it's as good as metal. it can even be used on engine blocks. trust me i've done it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfranken Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 Hondabond and Ultragrey are (mostly) the same. Took 6 years to get out. I worked at Honda too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 the stuff nissan recently started putting out is even tougher than hondabond is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 You would think that Honda and nissan would be able to machine thier parts better so as not to need this "Great" sealer to correct thier mistakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfranken Posted June 30, 2011 Author Share Posted June 30, 2011 I love GREAT sealer. **** sucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 from what ive seen their parts are machined much better. they dont have intake gasket leaks lol but the sealer is used to seal almost everything on the engine exept the head. its cheaper to seal it with a $10 tube of goop that seals an entire engine than make gasket molds and experiment finding the right materials to fit and deal with lining up these gaskets on assembly. Its faster and cheaper to slap some of this sealer on them to seal oil or coolant or even air. it's not a defect with their machining process it's just cost effective and the stuff the dealer sells is better than what the assembly plant uses when it assembles engines and trannys because it has to set while fighting off oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 You are completley correct, IF you want a slop job......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 just gota know how to use it. If a light bead comes out when you compress it youre good. If it squeezes out an inch out the parts youre sealing and all the bolt holes then yea it'll look crappy lol. I use it all the time so im familiar with how much to use on what applications and i use it sparingly and apply it lightly by hand like a coating instead of a bead around the item. this makes it compress not squeeze out and the very small bead barely sticks out 1/8" and looks just like a grey rubber gasket just like the factory does it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfranken Posted June 30, 2011 Author Share Posted June 30, 2011 (edited) One of the changes since the old days IS the sealents. It was that when a car got to, oh say 75K, every cork gasket needed replacing (might as well change the timing chain too).Then silicon came and glues improved. Yeah!What you got to look out for are over torqued bolt holes that are dimpled not allowing an even pull all around the flange. A socket in a vise, place steel flange hole over it and using a, maybe, 3/8 extension tip hammer the dimple back to flat.We don't need no stinkin' machining; we got goop! Edited June 30, 2011 by rjfranken (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 That's what I'm taking about. If you want to slop the goop and gasket sealer on everything that' you perogitive. BUT, My Motto" DO IT RIGHT OR DON'T DO IT".I don't belive in over using goop or any other sealer to correct a bad fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Recian Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 (edited) I only use what's required by the manufacturer. if they use poop i use poop if they use gaskets (like in the reatta's case) i use gaskets.. xept for the stubborn coolant leak that you can never fix and is in an odd-ball place that no human hands can get to then i'll slap as much goop as possible to make it seal.. after pulling my hair ot for 3 hours chasing a leak removing parts that are a pain i dont care about looks i care about sealing that damn coolant lol like i said before goop is used as a cheap gasket maker.. that's why it's called "Gasket maker" it cuts down on part numbers and part molds. blame the manufacturer for cutting corners on that one, not part fitting. I know a nissan's timing cover and engine block match perfectly and flush but they use goop to seal it so you dont have a large gasket that will fall when you try to install the timing cover in a v6 minivan that already has no room to install the cover wihout fighting a falling gasket lol (most of the time these vans have to have the engine removed to put chains on them anyway.. way to go nissan on your crappy chain tensioners) it makes sealing more complex parts like timing covers easier now that cars use DOHC more than the internal cam setups with small timing covers. I do agree rear main seal retainers and oil pans dont need poop but since theyre using it on other covers they just use it on everything else so then they only need to make mains, valve cover and head gaskets for an engine. 4 gaskets for an engine is more cost effective than using 10 gaskets in their opinion.. gaskets or poop, either has their own purposes and applications and when im in the back yard on a 95 degree day fighting with the car i do what i gota to make it work once the other way has failed or i f**d up a gasket thats only available in a kit or something like that lol Edited July 1, 2011 by Recian (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfranken Posted July 2, 2011 Author Share Posted July 2, 2011 Manifold complete.It fixed my high BLM number, was 255, now 150 and less. I'm certain my MPG's will improve. And that PCV grommet, I needed a good $20 rotary file anyway for my angled die grinder. Also picked up a Rollock buffing mandrell that has a live sleave and is a foot long-perfect for reaching and buffing the intake side of the heads while on the car. That O-ring on the t-body coolant pipe didn't work for me yet.Thanks for listening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Richard D Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 I once repaired a 1978 Accord head that had an area burned between two cylinders. (guess I should have had it towed instead of driving it 2 miles home, it just ran bad) Oh yeah, I used JB Weld to fill the gap in the aluminum. Harden overnight then worked fine for a couple years until I traded it for a new Fiero. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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