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What's #3?


RivNut

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You're all aware that bad luck comes in three's.

First, I buy a set of cast aluminum wheel covers and one is broken during shipping.

Second, I go out this morning to take the '85 to the upholstery shop for new carpet and there's a low brake pedal. Upon inspection of the brake fluid it's quite low. I pour some in only to watch it drain out of a crack in the plastic reservoir on the master cylinder.

What's #3 going to be?

Actually, my question is does anyone have a good reservoir they're want to sell? I called the local GM parts place and was told that part has been discontinued. Any and all help will be appreciated.

Can hot glue or super glue fix something like this?

Thanks.

Ed

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Guest Kingoftheroad

I don't think either glue would work plus, it may endanger your safety on the road one day when that glue gives out.

Have you called NAPA or OReilly's / Checker ?? Both companies carry hard to find parts.

Edited by Kingoftheroad (see edit history)
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Guest Kingoftheroad

I've never had that happen on any of my cars with the plastic reservoir and I put ALOT of miles on some of those vehicles...

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I agree that adhesives are not the way to go! Autozone shocks me sometimes that they can actually get old parts.If all else fails and you dont want to go the salvage yard route,try a rebuilder.One of the things that really bugs me is that the p.o. of my '63 riv sent the master cylinder back east to be reconditioned and it now has a modern plastic resevoir which I will need to spend more$$ to convert back to stock

Mark

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Guest Rob J

Definately DO NOT use any glue to fix a MC. It's your life we are talking about here. I'm sure you'll be able to find a replacement.

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Thanks Guys,

I had some other errands to run today so on the way home I stopped by a U-pull-it. I found a reservoir on an '82 Olds Cutlass exactly like the one on the Riv. Using a breaker bar, I was able to pop the reservoir off of the master cylinder - no screws, retaining pins, clips or anything, just a pressed fit in the rubber grommets between the MC and the reservoir. I brought it home, cleaned it up, popped the old one off, and pressed the new one on. Refilled the reservoir and Wah-lah I have brakes again. They're okay, but I'm going to bleed the system just in case. There's enough fluid in the top holes of the MC that fluid loss in the MC is not a problem. Luckily there's no pressure in the reservoir so even with the crack in the old one, I still had pressure inside the MC, just a very, very low fluid level. Now to figure out what other cars cross reference this reservoir. The MC on the Cutlass wasn't the same as the one on the Riv, but the reservoir was the same. Go figure. I think it has an R-R bar code on it.

Total cost: 15 miles round trip and I get 20 mpg in my Jeep, so I figure $3.00 for gas, $2.00 to get into the U-Pull-it, and $2.50 for the reservoir. I had change from a $10 bill for a Big Gulp at the 7-Eleven. Plus ten minutes time @ my extravagant rate of $0.00 / hour. (I do however owe my wife a new turkey baster when she finds out that I used the one from her kitchen for getting remaining fluid from old reservoir before popping it off.)

Thanks for your input.

Ed

PS - Just to let you know, I would never have used glue to fix anything metal or that is subject to pressure. ;)

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Ed, Im curious as to how those covers secure to the steel wheel given the studs.Was that a special rim with holes so the covers could bolt on from the back? The reason Im asking is my goal when I get my '63 close to show level is to aquire a nice set of turbine covers as they do look great.In the mean time Im retiring the spoke rims(kinda beat up)for a set of '66 covers with that chrome turbine spoke look and "big ass" spinners.Sorry I dont know how buick named them.After some work and polishing they are really nice driver quality and while not year correct they do look great for cruising around town even though the set weighs as much as a kia!

Mark

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Mark,

The wheels are nothing special. All Buicks with 15"x5.5" or 15"x6" rims came with wheels that had the four holes in them where the studs went through the wheel. I think that originally those same four holes were used for the rivets that held the spring clips for use with the dog-dish hub caps that were what came with the base wheels. Your '63 should have those wheels so all you'd need to do is remove the wheel from the axle, put the cover on, bolt it in place, and put the wheel back on. The cover is part of the wheel now. When removing the wheel with cover, you remove the stainless center cap from the cast cover, then access the lug nuts through the center hole in the cast cover. Make sure that anyone touching the car for tires is aware of this. I found that it was easier to take the center cap off BEFORE taking the car to the tire store. One other note that will save aggrevation and broken or spun wheel studs is that the left (driver's) side of the car has left hand threads on the wheel studs. For that side of the car it's "Righty loosey, Lefty tighty." Just pick a tire store that will let you hang out with the mechanic when he's removing / installing the wheels on your car. I can show you what used to be a nice cast aluminum cover until a tire jockey used a tire iron to try and pry it off. The chunk out of the lip is about the size fo a silver dollar. Happend to the PO, not me. I used to tape instructions to the fender of the car when I'd take it in as well as try to hang out near the rack. Your '63 could have either 5 1/2" or 6" wheels on it. Wheel width depends on what size tire was originally ordered with the car. 7.10x15 tires came on 5-1/2" rims. 7.60x15 tires came on 6" rims. Measure rim width where the bead of the tire seats, not across the lips of the rim.

Auction #150543580157 on ebay shows a Buick steel rim. The holes in the slots are where the cast cover bolts on. Even though this wheel is for a '65 or later Buick, it still has the mounting holes even though the cast covers were no longer an option in '65 or later. You can tell this wheel is for a 65 or later by looking at the center hole. 1) it's smaller than the hole needed to go over the hub on a '63/64 and 2) there's a raised lip around the center hole. 63'64 holes don't have this raised lip.

Ed

Edited by RivNut
add ebay info (see edit history)
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Thanks,I felt stupid asking the question but my spare rim must be a replacement as no holes.I will check to make sure the wheel even fits as the time to find out is not when its too late.

Mark

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