1949 De soto questions

[Guest ozzie50]

I just bought a 1949. Let me tell you it is in amazing shape for the money. I counted it up yesterday and I am only missing 4 screws (besides thats its complete). My wifes 2007 car has more dents then this thing does. Question there just isn't a lot of info for parts. I need to redo the brakes, most parts stores don't carry desoto stuff. I was wondering what years and makes might be compatible for this car.

Thanks

[Rusty_OToole]

NAPA is usually a good place to go for old car parts. Or, wherever the farmers buy parts. All kinds of parts are available for your car through normal channels, you just need to find them.

An old gray haired or bald headed parts man in an old dusty parts store is probably better for this than a kid with purple hair and a snot ring in a shiny neon lighted store that opened last week.

The brakes on your car are among the best of their day and will work fine if set up right. But the initial adjustment can be tricky. I believe DeSoto and Chrysler used basically the same brakes from the forties up to 1957. All the parts are still available from the original manufacturer which I believe was Wagner. It may take a couple of days to get them.

Not sure how much you know about old Chrysler products. But will just mention that the electrical system is positive ground, 6 volt. And the wheel bolts on the left side of the car are left hand thread. These 2 things have thrown new owners who are not familiar with these cars.

Will also mention that your car has the Fluid Drive transmission, a unique cross between a standard and an automatic. They are a very good, rugged and reliable transmission but require a driving technique all their own. This has been covered extensively in threads on the Chrysler and Dodge bulletin boards on this site. Do a search for fluid drive and look at threads from 2008. Lots of good info on driving technique and maintenance that I would rather not type out again .

Finally the best investment you can make when you buy an old car, is a repair manual. Manuals for your car are available from Ebay and at old car flea markets. Usual price, $20 to $50. The factory supplied manuals to every dealer and there are lots of them still around. And there are reprints which are cheaper.

If you do your own work they are invaluable and if you hire a mechanic they are even more valuable.

[Guest ozzie50]

I ordered the book, but will not be in for a few days. I am use to 50's chevys. This is a new animal. I need to rewire the carburetor. It has 3 wires. Can anyone give me a hint where they go and their function? If anyone had a diagram of this that would be great.

[Rusty_OToole]

Here are Chrysler's own books on how the transmission works and how to troubleshoot problems. These links are to a Chrysler Imperial site. Your transmission is exactly the same as the one used in the 49 Imperial.

How the Hydraulically Operated Transmission Operates (Session 23) from the Master Technician's Service Conference

1949 Imperial and Chrysler Repair Of Hydraulically Operated Transmissions Session 24 from the Master Technician's Service Conference

[mribbich@wi.rr.com]

I may have the brake parts you need, wheel cylinders, master cylinder and shoes. Call or e-mail me. Thanks!!! 1-262-392-2989 or mribbich@wi.rr.com

Marv.

[Guest ozzie50]

I am still working on getting fire. I have it down to timing I think. However, my coil is getting extremely hot just trying to start. I have rewired according to diagram but still something is going on. any ideas?

[Guest ozzie50]

Would my engine be a 23" or 25" its a 236.6. What would be a good replacement if I cannot get this one running?

[Rusty_OToole]

The coil will get hot if you are using a 12 volt battery. The 236 is the long DeSoto/Chrysler block. This is a good engine, it does not need to be replaced. I bet if I was there I could have your motor eating out of my hand in a couple of hours. Unfortunately I am not the Amazing Kreskin.

Do you have spark? Is the timing close? Have you tried pouring a little gas down the carb?

Do you know any old car nuts with experience of the flathead Chrysler products?

Does the engine turn over? Does it fire?

What all have you done to it so far, in detail?

[Guest ozzie50]

I have had the carb rebuilt even the dashpot. Left this to a professional.

I have rewired all the old wiring which was really bad and made the starter turn weak.

Plugs/coil/condensor/points, lead wire all that good stuff. New batt. (6 volt.) and large cables.

Timing is where I am at now. The pointer is missing, so everything is by ear. I am looking for a couple of flathead people that are suppose to be around here, plenty of car guys just not to many mopar flathead people around.

I get plenty of gas, what I believe to be plenty of spark aslo. No fire.

[Rusty_OToole]

They have an unusual way of finding the timing. There is a pipe plug in the head above the last cylinder. If you take out the plug you can put a wire or small screwdriver down the hole and feel the piston move up and down . The screwdriver is safer, the handle will not allow it to fall in the cylinder.

If you time it so the spark fires when the piston is at top dead center it will be close enough to get started. To be sure #1 piston is on the firing stroke put your thumb over the first spark plug hole as you turn the engine, you will feel the compression woosh out on the compression stroke. The spark should fire at the end of the compression stroke. Check the position of the rotor to see which plug is firing.

#1 and #6 piston go up and down together so they reach TDC at the same time. Except one is on the compression stroke and the other is on the exhaust stroke.

If you have plenty of spark and plenty of gas all you need is compression and it is sure to fire, it has no choice. If the cylinders are dry or washed down by gas, it may help to squirt a little oil into the cylinders, thru the spark plug holes, with an oil can. Then turn the engine a few turns on the starter before replacing the plugs.

If the plugs get gummed up with gas and oil you have to clean them by sandblasting to get them to fire. I use a small "spot" sandblaster used for bodywork. It is a syphon blaster with different rubber tips for the end, one of the tips is the same dia hole as a spark plug. If you sandblast plugs give it a brief blast, and be sure to clean well with compressed air and examine the end of the plug closely. You may have to pick out stuck sand with a needle. Do not allow any sand to get in your engine.

Edited May 5, 2011 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[Guest ozzie50]

Got the old girl up and running. Timing is a bit off but atleast I know she is alive. Still working on wiring. If anyone could help me with my horn relay and circuit breaker that would be great. I believe I got it right so far but for some of the wires I don't want to go breaking up the old harness till I am ready to tape the wires together. First pic is horn relay, second is circuit breaker. I have the book but it doesn't seem completely right where I have chased some of the orginal wiring.

[Rusty_OToole]

See that wasn't so hard. Well easier than installing a new engine lol.

Do you have a repair manual? It should have a wiring diagram and explain most of what you need to know.

[Guest ozzie50]

I am trying to find a mechanical fuel pump that will work with the desoto. Mine has a straight arm (and shows straight in the manual). Everyone I have got for a similar year mopar is hooked. Does this matter? Any help would be great.