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My DA continued


Guest MidTNDawg

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Guest MidTNDawg

A few things.

The NAPA belt fits / works fine. Part no js displayed as 25

24400

I think I must get the pump lubed now!

Still having problems withe the vacuum pump. I have 18" of vacuum off the manifold but never detected any on the gas side before it ran out of gas twice. FYI I have connected a separate line and ran it to a gallon jug to eliminate a clogged pick-up or bad fuel line. The pump rebuilder asked that I send the pump to him to look at again. Wallace Deck is his name and he seems like a very nice man. He is into vintage Chevys.

I have some pictures now but will have to be retrained in how to post them

Oil is leaking at the bottom of the oil filter. I'll have to drain and check the fittings.

I really wanted a car to buy and drive. I guess they are for somebody else. I am enjoying my time with my car; it is just I seem to stay so busy.

Doug

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Wally deck is a friend of mine, I usually try and meet him every year when he comes down here with his wife. I will see him this weekend I am hoping. Curious to see what oil filter you are running, again pict. would be great.

Model A or T you could have driven with a lot less worrys but everyone can have one of them.

Do you have a filter on the gas line, originally there would have been a sediment bowl off of your vacuum tank that caught alot of the crap.

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Guest MidTNDawg

Hi, Jason. Tell Wally I said Hello and the VT is in the UPS system on Thur. 2/24. The oil filter looks to be the same as in the manual. Will let you know more if I find any more.

I have pictures in the computer but got to learn again how to post on the forum.

"Model A or T you could have driven with a lot less worrys but everyone can have one of them." Funny you would say that. I said almost the same thing in my letter to Wally.

I have not looked from tank to Vac. Tank for filter, but as noted I put another line on running to a gallon jug so no clogged line. The sediment bowl is there as as best I couls inspect it no trash made it through, no evidence of anything around the gas inlet. Now I understand how invisible little stuff can be.

Is there a wrench that fits the water pump packing nut and can be turned? Or is this where water pump pliers got their name? The shoulders on my wrenched are so big I can't turn them.

Doug

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There is a special wrench, I can easily trace the outline on a piece of paper and can send it to you, it is simply flat thin steel, easy to make or someone was selling a repro at one time and it may have been the other Doug, I guess he had someone make a bunch for him to resell.

If the pict. are in your comp. just click on the advanced button next to the reply button and there you will scroll down until you see add images and click on that and find the images in your comp and add them.

A pict.is worth alot of words and it would be so much easier if I knew what you were dealing with

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Guest MidTNDawg

Jason, you are a fountain of knowledge. I may have had a wrench like you describe at one time. I will look. I have attempted to upload an image but continue to get an error message that the upload failed. Doug

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Your images prob. need to be resized, got your pict. on e-mail though no problem, I can post them here if you like or not if you prefer I did not.

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Guest MidTNDawg

Well, I will try re-sizing and see 1) does it post and 2) how does it look ? The pic title was changed to reflect a modified picture, not a modified distributor

Doug

post-72134-143138462629_thumb.jpg

Edited by MidTNDawg
define "modified" (see edit history)
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Guest MidTNDawg

OK, pictures of the dash, haven't made any yet but will tomorrow.

Re: heater- it doesn't blow and haven't looked at that yet. I will check for a name.

Re: starter - don't know if there is a starter knob or not. Haven't seen one but the names are very faint so I will look. Wasn't the original starter a foot pedal? The solenoid starter works very well I must say.

I will be trying to get any pics I can. Oh, and Doug, I haven't counted the spokes yet.

Doug

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Originally the car was started by pulling out a knob on the dash, there were two different style knob. assy that I know of that I refer to as an early and late, I can show both versions if anyone is interested. Practically identical, just a small change to the escutchion between 29 and 30 models

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Guest MidTNDawg

Well again I may be faced with what my car is i.e., '29 or '30. Titled as a '30 but serial no. indicates produced before '29 models ended. Maybe the picture will show that. Doug

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It's kind of odd, my '24 has a factory heater but yet a 5 year newer DA never had one. I have parts an aftermarket one that was in my DA when I got it. I was lucky enough to find a complete NOS heater JUST like in my DA at Hershey, in the box. Doug, the selanoid, like you have, was a pretty common fix. The original switch housing was pot metal, don't imagine they lasted too long.

Edited by nearchoclatetown (see edit history)
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Guest Backyardmechanic

dough,

on page 38 in the 1st edition dA owners manual there's a picture of the starter with the switch.Romar is the only one making the complete switch.

Dough W.on the cable we have made a few cables in the past but seems like the Brothers just go to a auto parts store for cable allready made up for a fraction on what we have in labor.

Vern

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@ Doug, that engine looks very clean; nice shots too. I was wondering if you could take a close-up of the generator and clum lighting switch at the bottom of the steering column for me just when you have the time. It's also nice to see how your heater hoses are connected. BTW, my starter switch assembly is steel, not pot metal; when the car ran I never had problems with it.

@ nearchoclatetown, I think your '24 heater is in the floor where it connected to the exhaust pipe for heat. I think they may have been deemed unsafe due to carbon monoxide issues if the pipe rusted out. The hot water heaters seemed to come out in the late 20's.

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Bob, My '24, which is a Fisher coupe, has a manifold stove made of sheet metal. But it is factory, is probably unsafe as you state but does provide heat. The aftermarket heater in my DA is the same thing. It just seems odd that the factory cared enough to put heat in the car in '24, then quit for later years. Both of my VWs have exhaust type heat too.

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Anyone that bought a DA could have opted for a heater installed at the dealer. It was made by Northeast just like all the other electrical in the car. There are of course lots of other heaters that were avail. aftermarket but the Northeast unit will be the closest to correct that you can get. I can post a pict. if anyone is interested.

Thanks for the info on the starter switch Bob, I learned something new, you still have my address right ? :D

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Wow, I wonder who might have a dealer installed DA Northeast heater?!

@ nearchoclatetown- maybe they didn't know how to make a mini-radiator looking hot water heater until the late 20's??? That is weird that heaters disappeared for a few years.

@ Jason - Yeah, I still have your address :) ...just not a spare starter switch. Between the mohair headliner issue, the cast iron distributor and now a steel starter switch, not to mention parts from later years, I think I might just have a goofy DA !

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Guest Backyardmechanic

Bob,

Could you post a picture of that steel starter switch? It would be interest to see if it was made by North East.

Vern

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Guest MidTNDawg

Doug, picture of the dash. I will need to set up some lighting on this also it seems. Couple of notes: there is a starter knob behind the steering wheel in the pic. I haven't checked to see if there is a cable or not, but the knob moves freely hence probably no cable. The odometer appears to be loose behind the dash. More to come, Doug

post-72134-143138463941_thumb.jpg

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Doug, thanks for the photos of the clum switch....is your throttle linkage connected as I didn't see it? Yeah, my starter cable / pull is to the left of the dash and looks like the other pulls....your garnish moulding looks in great shape!

Vern, here is a photo of my starter switch. it does take a magnet, but it's a little different magnetism on the housing vs. the other parts. The magnet sticks great to the flat steel stock and the small round piece and then a little different to the main housing. Maybe the housing is cast iron like my distributor? It is labeled Northeast Electric.

post-56954-143138464056_thumb.jpg

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Quote ...I don't think I've heard of a Northeast heater, water or air?......I am not sure what you mean by air unless you mean manifold heater but no the Northeast unit was water

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Guest Backyardmechanic

Bob,

Drop it see if it holds up. lol Just kidding it looks to be potmetal if not this will be the first I have see nor heard of one not being potmetal in 25+ years in dealing with DB parts

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Yes Doug, just like most heaters it runs coolant from the engine block into a heater core, there is a fan at the backside of the core that blows hot air thru the heater core and that is why we feel heat inside the cabin.

Vern if you ever decide topart with the NE let me know, mine is in pretty poor shape and missing some pieces. I dont care if the core is any good as I can have one made easily enough

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Guest MidTNDawg

Bob, the throttle is not connected. One more thing to do. And I think it was nearchoclatetown who asked about the spokes. The wheels are 60 spoke wheels. I hope to hear something about the vacuum tank soon. Wally Deck received it Monday and had said he would do a quick turnaround. Weather is better so I am ready to drive it some. Doug

Edited by MidTNDawg
typo (see edit history)
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