What gauge of sheetmetal was used in 1930?

[michaelod]

My 1930 Model 68 has a considerable number of holes in the firewall placed there by various owners over the years, several of which are greater than 1" in diameter. Basically it looks like Swiss cheese in some areas. I am intending to patch these with my MIG welder and would like to know what gauge of sheetmetal was used in these cars. Do they used the same gauge metal throughout the body (firewall, fenders, door skins, etc.)?

Thanks,

[Bob Engle]

Your best bet is to measure the thickness at the location you want to fill and Use the nearest gauge thickness to your measurement.

Bob

[Mark Shaw]

Michael,

Because most of the panels are pressed steel, the expanded areas will be thinner. I agree with Bob that you should measure the thickness and try to match it. For smaller holes, you can clamp an aluminum or copper block behind the hole and fill it with weld. Either way, you will be doing some grinding...

My 2 cents...

[michaelod]

I will just go ahead and measure it to get the closest match as suggested. My research thus far seems to indicate in ballpark terms that the earlier cars prior to the 1960's used around 18 gauge whereas modern cars are using 20 to 22 gauge.

I purchased an interesting tool from Eastwood that is fundamentally a copper plate with magnets embedded in it that allows one to attach it to the back side of the firewall and then place the patch on the front side where it can then be tacked on.

Thanks,

[Mark Shaw]

You have the professional tool for the job.

I am more of a "shade tree" mechanic and make do with what I can make work.

[Guest Hayman]

Michael, I also own a 1930 model 68, I'm in the process of trying to replace my brake shoes, fronts not to bad, rears I'm am still trying to figure out how to remove the hubs. anyway good luck with your Buick.

Dana

[Bob Engle]

To remove rear brake drums without the puller designed for drum removal, you need a theaded rod the size and threads to match your lug bolts, and a 1/2 inch thick steel plate long enough to extend 1 inch beyond the lug holes and wide enough to cove 2 lug holes on one side and on hole on the other side. Drill three holes in the plate to match the three lug holes. Put a piece of threaded rod in the three lug holes and put the plate over the axle end with the axle nut loose and onto the three threaded rods. Put nuts on the ends of the threaded rods and tighten until the plate flexes or the drum pops loose. If the drum does not pop loose, take a big hammer ( 3 or 4 pounder works good) and wack the plate over the axle stub and the drum will pop loose.

You are lucky that your drums are tight. I have seen several cars with the drums loose and the keys and axle taper damaged from this loose condition. When reinstalling the drum make sure the drum is pulled up tight on the axle.

Bob