Leaking Radiator

[Guest Steve91]

Hello,

The radiator on my 1991 has started to leak. It has developed a crack in the plastic tank. Is a GM radiator the best option for a replacement or would a aftermarket be sufficient? I would like to keep it as close to original as possible. I noticed that some replacement radiators have HD (heavy Duty?) in the description. Does the Reatta require a heavy duty replacement radiator?

It's too bad as this is the original with a build date (I think) stamped on it.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve

1991 Buick Reatta coupe

Edited November 26, 2009 by Steve91 (see edit history)

[Doug Harness]

Here's a link to the GM Parts Direct listing for a '91 radiator: http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/catalog/frameset.cfm.

Their current price is $241.50.

The radiator in my '91 developed a serious leak back in July. I paid $189.99 for a new after market radiator. I wish I had replaced it sooner, because it immediately ran a lot cooler with the new radiator.

[Guest Telco]

No need for an HD radiator unless you are planning on adding power to it, or unless you live in desert country where it's regularly over 100 degrees and have very mild winters. An HD radiator usually means one or more cores than the factory came with, can have up to 4 cores. It won't do much to keep it cooler in most areas because they are such overkill, but can cause it to take longer to heat up in the winter. It takes a long time for the engine to heat that much extra water, especially when there's such a large heat sink to pass heat out.

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

Hard to beat this deal:

88 89 90 91 BUICK LESABRE REATTA 3.8 V6 RADIATOR:eBay Motors (item 300367884257 end time Dec-16-09 11:15:32 PST)

[charlie1]

On my 1989 Riviera I replaced it with a after market from a local radiator shop costs $150.00 mine was 28 1/4 inches wide . The other choice was a 30 1/2 inches wide. Be sure you get the one that fits your car.

[padgett]

I have repaired a plastic crack with JB Weld before.

[Guest SwiftBuicks]

After thinking about starting a new thread about Radiator maintenance, I read this one through. I'm adding my questions here. I want to drain, flush and replace the anti-freeze in my Buick. An old timer once recommended draining the rad, putting a hose in the radiator fill hole, running it and the engine for a few minutes, then filling it with clear water and a few teaspoons of Baking Soda. After that according to him, one should drive the vehicle for a day or two, drain the rad and then add new anti-freeze. I've tried both this and the commercial flush method in a few old cars. The cheaper home remedy method seemed to work just as well as the commercial one. Any comments?

[Guest wally888]

I have repaired a plastic crack with JB Weld before.

Wondering: I have a tiny crack at top L. side (had another w/ same problem) of radiator. Over time anti freeze escapes. What steps did you use to fix w/ J B Weld?

[padgett]

Drain below the crack, clean surface and crack thoroughly using cleaner first then alcohol, roughen surface around the crack a bit with emory cloth, surface must be completely dry and free of contaminents before continuing.

Mix JBWeld, apply a small amount to crack itself pressing down (small spatula or flat blade screwdriver) so some flows into crack, apply second coat overlapping crack on all sides by 1/8-1/4 inch. Has worked for me about two out of three times. Third time there is a seep & have to sand down and reapply.