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rear defogger


Don Hudd

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Guest Richard D

You might try measuring the impedence of the defroster grid. Disconnect one lead going to the grid then set your meter to resistance X1 scale and see what it shows. The lower resistance means more connected grid wires, if it shows no resistance (open circuit) then you have a break in the grid somewhere, probably where the main wires connect to the grid.

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Guest RealMcCoy
I have now checked the fuse and relay on passenger side fuse box and they are good.

The power out of the relay also feeds the heated mirror fuse(#1). It's much easier to check for power there than crawl around the trunk...

The control side of the relay is powered by the A/C fuse, (#19) and the switch itself is fed power from the wiper fuse, (#12)

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When you push the defogger switch on the dash, see if the little amber LED is as bright as any of the other switches ie: wipers, park lights etc. Try holding your finger on the switch when you turn it on, and have someone take a reading at the grid. I had a similar problem with my cruise control dash switch. The problem turned out to be dirty contacts inside the switch pod.

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Guest Richard D

Hi Craig, It probably means that the rest of the grid conductors have bad spots on them. I have seen repair kits for them at auto parts stores but they appear to be hard to use once you find the bad area, you mask off the sides and apply the conductive coating. Your car probably had window tint on it at one time and when they peel it off it tears up the grid. My 90 coupe has tint and about 4 lines not working. If I peel off the tint to repair the 4 I will probably destroy a dozen more.

Edited by Richard D (see edit history)
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