Help with Axle seals on 'Yoda'

[Gary_N]

Hey Everyone:

I'm replacing rear seals and bearings on my '50. I have a question on the rear axle seals. The seals I bought from CARS don't look like the seals I pulled out....with great trouble I might add.

The center section of the seal has a 'rubber' ring, the seal itself that slides over the axle. The rubber seal is rounded almost like an 'L' so that on one side the rubber edge is smooth (curved edge) and the other side is flat or the edge of the 'rubber'. The inner seal was previously installed with the flat edge pointing out. For some reason that seems wrong to me. The old outer seal is one that I installed earlier and I could have put it in wrong...but in any event, I had it installed with the curved edge point out. I was thinking that it should be this way so that the axle has a smooth surface to rub against when being installed since it's a very very tight fit. I was thinking the inner should be the same?

Last year I replaced only the inner seal and it leaked more when I was done. This time I'm replacing both seals and the bearings. Also, the current leak seems to be seeping from the outside metal edge of the seal. I would think that since the seal is pressed in, it wouldn't seep? Bad seal maybe? Cheap Chinese stuff maybe?? Or, bad mechanic...probably.

Would appreciate any advice.

Thanks!

Gary

[Robberbach]

The outer seal should go with "cone" or tapered part facing in, so that the axle doesn"t try to fold it over when you slide it in. If you are getting fluid past the outer section of the seal and housing, clean housing and put a very small amount of silicone sealent in before you install the seal.

Hope this helps.

[Gary_N]

Robberbach, it helps. What about the inner seal?

[old-tank]

Gary

Install both the same way with the cone or lip pointing to the center of the axle. Unless your old bearings are defective, consider using them instead of some possibly newly made in China bearings that will soon fail. If the old ones are bad, try to find some NORS American made bearings like New Departure.

Pack with a good grease like Vaolvoline Synthetic and you will never have to service again.

Willie

[Gary_N]

Willie, you are a knowledge powerhouse! My old bearings are not usable. I rented what seemed like a puller that would work and all it did was bend the inside of the bearings. So, I made my own puller. Ugly but it worked. I have bearings coming from CARS but I assume that's the dreaded Chinese stuff? I'll look around for bearings of your suggestion.

Should I use any type of lube on the seals or leave them dry?

Thanks!

Gary

[Gary_N]

Willie, do you have any suppliers in mind for the bearings? I'm looking around now.

Gary

[Guest Straight eight]

Olcar Bearing Company

455 Lakes Edge Drive

Oxford, MI 48371

810/969-2628 FAX:810/628-7879

[old-tank]

Gary

The bearing that I used (Bower or BCA number=RA 1502 EL) will work on 45-55 and I got it locally at a bearing/seal supplier. The inner race that is pressed onto the axle is harder to find and I don't have that number---you probably don't need to change it anyhow unless there are large pits or gouges. A lite coat of grease on the seal edges and axle should do it. Check the country of origin on the package...for all I know these may be foreign by now too.

Willie

[Gary_N]

Willie, the bearings from Olcar are Japanese. I would think those would be good. There is another supplier (A & D Antique Auto Parts) that has American made bearings. A & D seals are Mexican and Olcar seals are American made. Also, their front wheel bearing are American Made. Jeff at Cars tells me his rear wheel bearings are Japanese as well. Again, I feel OK with Japanese stuff since I think their steel items are good. What do you think?

Gary

[old-tank]

Gary

I have no experience with Japanese bearings.

Willie