1932 Dodge DL6 coil problem

[Guest outlaw car man]

Working on a 32 Dodge DL6-

1) I used the idea I gained from here, using the test light, I hooked it on the coil wire to dist, then grounded it. Loosened the dist( cap removed of course) and turned it waiting for the light - nothing. Re-grounded it a couple times to make sure- points open and close no test light comes on. ( 6V)

2) hooked the test light to the other side of coil ( firewall mounted coil) where it goes inside , grounded test light-ON.

Tried again to different ground spots , test light on-

Can I safely figure I have a bad coil from this- Juice coming in to one side of coil, nothing coming out.

Thanks-

SJ

[nearchoclatetown]

In your number two, the light is telling you have current to the coil. It will stay lit as long as the switch is on. In your number one the light will not light unless the points open.

[Guest outlaw car man]

Thanks, looks like I have a coil that doesn't work. Points fully open ( with a piece of cardboard between too) no light on.

I have a spare newer 6V coil that came with the car, are all 6V coils pretty much the same ? I ran a jumper wire from the incoming coil wire (neg) to the neg on this coil. Then the test light to the positive side and grounded - it lights-

I guess I could bypass the coil in question, hook the new one up, try this one on the points.

Appreciate it again.

[Guest outlaw car man]

I could bypass the coil in question, hook the new one up, try this one on the points.

This worked to the distributer ,then no test light at points open.

Could this be I am shorting out at the connection post to the points -

interesting stuff. Like to get it fired up -

[nearchoclatetown]

Maybe the wire is shorted going through the side of the distributor? Broken wire inside insulation? Do you have an OHM meter? Can you check continuity from coil through side to points? Are the point contact clean? Don't file them, sand them. Make sure there's no oil on contacts. Make sure the contact PLATE is grounded {OHM meter again}, there may be a tiny wire to ground it.

[Guest outlaw car man]

Maybe the wire is shorted going through the side of the distributor? Broken wire inside insulation? Do you have an OHM meter? Can you check continuity from coil through side to points? Are the point contact clean? Don't file them, sand them. Make sure there's no oil on contacts. Make sure the contact PLATE is grounded {OHM meter again}, there may be a tiny wire to ground it.

Do have a OHM meter, but just learning it. The connection post from outside of distributer to points is a bit oily, nasty.

Looks like the dist post is, or should be, insulated from the connection & condenser to the points connection inside.

I can compare it with my other DL6 and compare, not that that will solve it-

Really think it's now an insulation problem-

Thanks for the advice.

keep you all posted.

another start to a learning curve-

Sandy

[nearchoclatetown]

With the points OPEN you should have no continuity from the wire or moveable point to ground. With the points CLOSED make sure there is continuity from the coil wire to the NON moveable point. A friend's car had an intermittant miss on ALL cylinders. That turned out to be the insulator through the side of the distributor. It was made of a cardboard type material and had rust growing in it.

[hchris]

OK try this then:

1. with distributor cap removed points closed turn the ignition on and manually move the points open; you should see a small spark across the points as you open them, do this in the shade or dark place as the spark will only be weak and you may miss it in bright light.

2. If this is successful, make sure the points are closed and put the cap back on. Loosen the distributor clamp,unplug the high tension lead from the distributor cap and hold it 1/2 inch from a good earth. With the ignition turned on move the distributor back and forth, as you do you should get a big fat spark from the high tension lead to earth.

If you fail at 1. then the problem exists somewhere in the primary circuit, this could be wiring to the points; points themself or the condensor.

If you fail at 2. then most likely the coil is at fault.

[Guest outlaw car man]

Good point. I did what Chocolate town guy said, had great test light results, put everything back together-

Took the Burgess off, did a start fluid spray in the carb to see if I got a fart from the engine. Nothing.

Car hasn't been run in 2-3 years, so back, set the timing, set the points then do your suggested test- ( hate electrical stuff & brake stuff).

I thought I had the coil thing figured out, maybe not. PO said it had a firing problem, insulated points or coil he thought.( insulated points ?)

We'll get er- I'll keep posting with results.

Thanks-

[nearchoclatetown]

If you had good test light results you should have spark at the points? Now you need to use your ohm meter again and check the rotor and distributor cap, every terminal inside to outside. Either could have a crust of corrosion. Then check EACH spark plug wire individually. AND don't use starting fluid!!

[Guest outlaw car man]

Advice taken, will start the above processes when the shop warms up. Corrosion could be an issue-

Thanks-

[Guest outlaw car man]

everything checked out OK, but the coil test to ground/earth gave just a very , very, very small spark. Tried this a couple times and the test light check on the points also stopped- HMM

PO had sent another coil,in a box of parts so I hooked it back up again with good results.

Unhooked the fuel pump & cleaned the bowl, not to bad-

hooked up a temp gas line to the carb, filled it full of gas and we got a small fire, second time a nice backfire.

Took my other 32 DL6 around the block, just to celebrate- It runs just perfect, this one will too.

Beer-thirty.................

[Guest vyacht]

will a 1938 dodge rear end fit a 1935 dodge

[Guest outlaw car man]

Might want to post this under a new topic-