Roadster90 Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 5 quarts of Valvoline Conventional or Max Life oil with a Fram Extra Guard Oil Filter for either 12.99 or 13.99. OK- Alright-I know, the fram filter is not desirable.....so give it away....the oil by it self normally sells for 4.19 a quart...still a heck of a deal...Especially if you sign up for the Valvoline newsletter.....the newsletter has a 5.00 rebate going on for a 5 quart purchase as well....that nets 5 quarts of Max Life for 8.99....sweeeeeet Also deals on the other types of Valvoline blends and racing oils.Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 Nic; The oil is fine, but the filter is garbage. Rated way down in the basement. I would not take one for free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AlexWeber Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 Any idea how long it will last? I need to do a change on both of my cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadster90 Posted April 5, 2008 Author Share Posted April 5, 2008 Jon, I tried to swap at the purchase point and was told a big FAT NO ....anyway, like I said...give it away..just don't take it or do as follows: I took it (both of them as I got two deals) and I will stick them in the next back yard sale for a dollar each.... they WILL sell for a buck....Hey, it lowers my cost per quart just that much more....normally I wouldn't care, but the economy is costing ME, and YOU, and EVERYBODY a great deal of money right now,(won't even get into particulars) so every penny COUNTS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest craig hewitt Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 oil change with delco filter 11.00 chevy dealer in romeo mi dont do my own they let me go under car while on hoist pricless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 AC Delco Duraguard Filters are as bad as Fram,Rated in the column to Stay away from... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest simplyconnected Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 Could there be a more hostile environment than a crankcase? Everyone is an authority on this subject, and they agree that synthetic oil is best, but I question blended oil. It isn't true synthetic. Conventional oil degrades from the moment you pour it in, and it doesn't 'wash' clean like synthetic oil (in the filter). I think blends offer a false sense of security to buyers, when they should be cautioned about friction from acid buildups and heat breakdown causing less lubricity after about 3,000 miles.Filters? I had a Fiat that had a screen but no filter. By the way, oil goes from your pan to your oil pump first, and then to your filter. Filters are #4 in my list of essential 'clean engine' priorities.Air filters have to be #1. Engines go through thousands of cubic feet of it per gallon of gas. All that blow-by comes from air on top the pistons that didn't go out the exhaust.Motor oil is a very close second, but nobody thinks about their PCV (#3). PCV does a great job of pulling dirty air away before it gets in your oil. Now, THAT's a pound of prevention. It also keeps all the nasty fumes away from the front of the car, so engine smells don't get into your heat/vent ducts.Oil filters are very limited in keeping your engine clean, due to conventional oil acids. Much of the oil gets bypassed in a performance engine filter, (so they put two filters side-by-side and use synthetic oil). For everyday driving, conventional oil and even 'marginal' oil filters work just fine when changed every 3,000 miles. Nothing claims better lubricity, or is cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 So Your saying we should use any old filter and worry about using the most expensive oil and change the PCV. Next your going to tell us to use K&N air filters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest simplyconnected Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 Do what you want, but if you want a clean engine:1. Use a good air filter.2. If you are using conventional oil (that breaks down and picks up acids), NO filter will help and it doesn't matter what brand you get. Changing oil at 3,000 miles will ensure as high lubricity as the most expensive oils.If you use synthetic oil (that doesn't break down), get a good filter because it will 'wash' the oil and preserve lubricity for extended runs between oil changes. 3. Make sure your PVC is working properly.CAUTION- Synthetic blends are NOT synthetic oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 I am willing to compare engine insides for dirt and contaminates any time. I have always used regular oil and the best filters I can buy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 I agree with Viking.Here is what I have learned about oil from being a machinist and mechanic for over 25 years. I have torn down dozens of engines.Whenever I tore an engine down that had high mileage that was unusually clean inside and had very little wear I would ask the owner about the type of oil he used and how often it was changed. The brand of oil that was used in the cleanest engines I have taken apart was Castrol GTX. Castrol GTX also was superior in reducing wear. Most engines that had used GTX had very little cylinder wear. Usually not enough that they needed ridge reaming after 200,000 miles. Valvoline was second in keeping the engine clean and reducing wear. Stay away from Quaker State and all cheap oils as most are paraffin based oils and tend to build up on engine parts. I have seen oil return holes in cylinder heads completely plugged with buildup from these type oils. I have needed to use a pry bar to remove the distributor from the intake manifold of a 350 small block because it had so much buildup on the bottom end that it would not fit through the hole in the manifold.I have used Castrol GTX in all my vehicles for many years. I have never had any oil related problems. My previous two pickup trucks had over 200,000 miles when I traded them and the engines never had any internal engine problems. My current pickup, a Chevrolet has over 205,000 miles on it and no internal engine problems.To sum up my thoughts on engine oils; Use a premium quality engine oil (I highly recommend Castrol GTX), change your oil every 3000 miles and use a good filter like Purolator, you will not have any problems caused by the oil. You can spend the big bucks and buy the expensive synthetic oils and brag about what a superior oil they are compared to petroleum based oils (and they may be) but to me they are not necessary and are a waste of money. The synthetics may be better in high performance applications but in normal vehicles like the Reatta I don't see where they are needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 One other thing about Synthetic oil is, If you have a tiny little leak anywhere it will find it and your leak will become a problem.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 One thing to remember about synthetic oils.If you have a very small leak anywhere it will find it and your leak will become a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest steveskyhawk Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 "One thing to remember about synthetic oils.If you have a very small leak anywhere it will find it and your leak will become a problem." _________________________So it is settled! If synthetics "find" leaks then they not only clean better they are also lubricating those hard to reach areas. I like Mobil 1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest simplyconnected Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 63viking</div><div class="ubbcode-body">One thing to remember about synthetic oils.If you have a very small leak anywhere it will find it and your leak will become a problem. </div></div> Are you saying synthetic oil is less viscous (thinner)? Really?What brand of oil causes the least friction (or the best lubricity)? If any oil could claim to be THE BEST, why would we buy anything else? Would you settle for second best to save 30¢/qt? I highly doubt it.I want the best friction reducer for my car. Truth is, for anyone with a naturally-aspirated engine, conventional oil is as good as it gets. When you change it every 3,000 miles, you are ensuring it is clean. When you change the filter, you are changing most all of it.Oil filter material is cellulose (paper) or a synthetic. It is protected from collapse by a bypass valve. What paper holds up against 40 pounds oil pressure? When your engine is cold and the oil is thick, how much oil gets bypassed along with all those nasty particles? That valve is open most of the time. Want a strainer with finer holes? You just made it open sooner.I am saying that oil filtration is very overrated. The filter keeps larger particles out, but the real filtration comes when you change your oil. Why did they used to change the oil filter every other oil change? I guess it wasn’t full yet.Hey, you long term mechanics; ever see rear end oil after it’s been in there a while? That oil glistens with metal particles floating everywhere, yet most diff’s go to the scrap heap with original oil. Where’s the filtration?Let's compare engines. I pulled my 351W after 150,000 miles of beating it up daily, to rebuild and put in another car. What oil did I use? Whatever was on sale. This pic was meant to show A/C brackets. But, look at the oil under the first valve spring and on the valve tips. I just pulled the covers off. Here it is just after I pulled the heads. 150,000 miles. There's NO ridge in any of these cylinders. I just washed the block and rust is starting to form on the decks. Look at the highlights in the cylinders. Straight as an arrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MauiWowee Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 How did Nic's kind sharing of a good deal turn into yet another oil debate. Hi Jack! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 You are right. I'm one of the guilty parties and I apologize to everyone. I appreciate Nic's post about the great deal on the oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadster90 Posted April 7, 2008 Author Share Posted April 7, 2008 i am now afraid to write anything now or ever again ........ (kidding of course) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 Sorry, Help is not wanted and will not be offered again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest steveskyhawk Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 It is not what you can see with the naked eye. Aircraft do what is called oil analysis which shows trends in the quantity of microscopic particles. Certain amounts of these compounds is normal. The pictures of the 351 are nice but inconclusive. Why was this engine pulled so soon? 150k is not high milage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest simplyconnected Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 I apologize too. Didn't mean to detract from Nic's kindly intent tell us about a sale. I admit, I rather enjoy viking's and other member's take on things.Sorry if I hijacked, Nic. Your suggestion opened great discussion that belonged elsewhere.Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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