gfw2 Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 1930 buick 60 series brake conversions Hi Has anyone converted a 1930 60 series (132" wheel base) to hydraulic brakes,Drum or disc.I plan on using my coupe as a daily driver.I also need the outside sheet metal piece that connects the top of the A pillars above the visor.Thanks George Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 I have driven my Pontiac daily (just under a thousand miles a month) for 49 years. I have found no problem with the original mechanical brakes. Get the right information and adjust them correctly and you have great stopping. One advantage with mechanical brakes is that there is no deterioration when sitting. Not like hydraulic. Unless one was changing the footprint of the tire on the road I cannot see how hydraulics could be any better. On my car one half of the pedal travel locks all four wheels. Once the wheels lock that's all there is, it dosen't matter how they are actuated. Even if you had to completely remanufacture your brakes it would be much cheaper than converting to hydraulics.It's great to hear of someone who is planning to drive their car. Too many beautiful old cars only get to come out on high days and holidays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 I agree with Reid. Keep the originals if they are in good working order. The key is to adjust the rod length to apply the brake with the levers at a ninety degree angle to the rod. This provides maximum leverage and (with properly adjusted friction material at each wheel) will lock up the wheels with less pedal pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest model61 Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 If you use the correct soft linings on your 60 series coupe and adjust them at the correct angle as suggested by Mark and the 1930 shop manual your car will stop better with mechanical than with hydraulic brakes. The 1930 brakes are also easier to adjust for wear than hydraulic. Just turn the knurled knob on each wheel about 3 notches.No worry about leaking lines or worn seals.I have 4 licensed cars with mechanical brakes that will lock up all 4 wheels with less pressure than my 1936 with hydraulic brakes.3061,3047, 35-4499,36-4499 Mclaughlin Buicksand a Packard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john griffin Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 Ihave a 25/49that was originally restored in Australia with custom made drums, hydraulic holden master and wheel cylinders and ford f250 brake shoes cut down to a narrower "1 7/8. the handbrake is now on the external rear band. from outside all looks as original. This car 7 up and luggage weighs in near 3 ton.I also have a 24 4 35 with mechanicals. i agree well adjusted mechanicals are as good as the tyre footprint EXCEPT in the wet and on the winding hilly roads wet in New Zealand. WET is the problem even on a freeway. regards john griffin. can send you pictures if you wish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest model61 Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 Wet roads will affect braking in 1929 and older Buicks as they had external contracting brakes . George's 1930 has internal expanding service and emergency brakes that are not exposed.There are 2 pairs of linings in each rear drum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rlbleeker Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 I went through the whole adjustment procedure on my Marquette last fall. After 78 years, things were more than a little out of spec. It took me most of a weekend since I had to repair/make a few parts. The difference was amazing. Before it was a little scary, and now it stops really great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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