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oil leak identified


Guest drtoddh

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Guest drtoddh

Thanks to everyone who offered their suggestions regarding a sudden oil leak I developed on my 89. This past weekend I was able to get the car up on ramps. The oil is clearly coming from the oil pan gasket. It looks like it has been replaced once because the gasket sticking out here and there looks very new. I tightened up all of the bolts but it didn't help. How big of a job is it to change that gasket. Is it something a person with limited "mechanic" know how can do. If so, are there any special cautions or is it just simply, drain the oil, unbolt the pan, new gasket in, put it back together? Thanks, Todd

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As I said in your original post about oil pan leaking:

I wrote:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I changed mine not long ago and it was really easy. Unlike a lot of other cars, the Reatta Oil pan will come off without much problem. Disconnect the oil level sensor connector, remove the flywheel dust cover, starter and the bolts and it will come right off with a little sliding around to clear the pickup screen. I have the small reduction starter on my engine and I didn't have to remove it but if you have the standard, large starter I believe it will have to come off. </div></div>

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Guest C.F.Massie

I checked about FelPro gaskets and there are two different ones for the Reatta

Part Number: FPOS30522R (Rubber) approx. $17.00

FELPRO OIL PAN GASKET SET -- Perma Dry Plus, High Quality, Direct Fit Replacement Gasket Set, Provides Superior Fit, Sealing And Heat Resistance, Oil Pan Gaskets Come With An Anti Stick Treatment For Easy Removal

Part Number: FPOS30522T approx. $30.00

FELPRO OIL PAN GASKET SET -- Perma Dry Plus, High Quality, Direct Fit Replacements, Provides Superior Fit, Sealing And Heat Resistance, Gaskets Come With An Anti Stick Treatment For Easy Removal

Which one are Reatta owners using?

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I used Part Number: FPOS30522R (Rubber) from Advance $9.88 + Tax. Worked perfect. Dry as a bone for last 4 months.

I glue the gasket to a clean dry oil pan with 3M yellow weather stripping cement and let it dry before installing (old school technology). I have better results that way than using the alignment pins supplied with the gasket.

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Just my .02.

(I updated this post 'cause I was at work the first time and wasn't able to devote the time to it then.)

I've used the FelPro Permadry gasket (OS30522R $10.99 @ AutoZone) and had two of them fail due to being squeezed out when the pan bolts were tightened. The first time I thought I might have over torqued the pan by incorrectly setting the torque wrench. (I didn't) The second time, I double checked the manual and the wrench setting and had the same thing happen. On the third attempt, I used the more expensive FelPro Permadry Plus (OS30522T $30.99 @ AutoZone) gasket and it performed flawlessly. I vowed to myself to never go down that road again. So I can only recommend as the others have and that’s to bite the bullet and get the more expensive gasket. It’ll be cheaper and less aggravating in the long run.

Had I used Ronnie’s tip of using 3M yellow weather stripping cement, I may have had better results with the -22R gasket but we didn’t know one another back then.

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