Guest weewilly Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 I have a transmision fluid leak which is not real bad but is very annoying, leaves a drop of less then an ounce in driveway after every drive. I drove to florida from raleigh nc and did not need to add but when I stopped again there was the spot in driveway. eventually I had to add some fluid not much may be 3 ounces after 900 miles. what needs to be done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadster90 Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 If it is your pan leaking there is a TSB or circular covering the seepage. Entails putting thread lock on the pan bolts...I believe the TSB/Circ may be viewed at www.reatta.net in the docs section. If not Chas1 may see this post and chime in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie1 Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 Exactly. A bit of locktite on pan bolts is the cure. Also use the correct pan gasket.Charlie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadster90 Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 Hey Charlie.....Question please:I still have not attacked this problem on my car. Is it necessary to wait for a certain time period after applying the Loctite to the bolts (better stated...a "curing period")? I have a #57 stone driveway, and it is next to impossible to work (jacking and moving around as on a creeper, etc) under a vehicle with that size or any size rock or stone. I may just take it somewhere and have it done is the reason for the curing question.Thanks,Nic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 Let me tell you about my transmission leak nightmare. My Reatta is an 88 model. When I bought it the pan gasket was slowly dripping. I changed the fluid and filter using AutoZoo's best gasket. The same drip was there after about 2 days. I could retorque the bolts to 120 inch pounds and the leak would stop for about 2 days and start again.I read about the loctite on the bolts fix and figured that must be my problem. After all, the bolts were coming loose. This time I was going to get it right. I took a lot of time and checked the pan with a straight edge to be sure it was good and straight. I drained the fluid again, cleaned all the surfaces and bolt holes with carb cleaner and reassembled the pan using a new Felpro gasket (I installed it dry just as the Felpro instructions said) and put blue loctite on the bolts. Drove it about 2 days and started have the same problem as before.I called my friend who works at the local Buick dealership and asked him what to do next. He told me that he had problems with the TH440 pans leaking on just one corner like mine was (driver's side in the rear) and said a new pan had cured the problem.I ordered a new pan from gmpartsdirect.com for about $50 bucks. Installed it as described above. Guess what.... SAME DAMNED LEAK!I started searching the Internet in earnest for a solution to my problem and found that many of the import cars are not using a gasket at all at the factory. Toyota, Honda and others are using just a sealer. I found the only aftermarket sealer approved by Honda was "The Right Stuff for Imports" by Loctite.I drained the fluid and cleaned everything up again. I applied The Right Stuff to the pan according to the directions. I slowly and evenly tightened bolts down till they bottomed out and then torqued the bolts to 200 inch pounds. I have been leak free now for over 2 months. I have checked the torque on the bolts three times and they have not loosened at all.I hope this might help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEMO Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 when you work under a car its real nice to have cardboard to lay down.try it and you will keep a piece just to slide under. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie1 Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 (edited) ZZZ Edited August 2, 2009 by CHAS1 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest weewilly Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 It appears leak is in th rear driverside of pan. So the fix is have new gasket? installed and have locktite put on bolts. or should I try with only "the right stuff by locktite" and have bolts torqued to 200 inch pounds? Anyone know reatta repair guy in Raleigh NC area or Melbourne FL.? I live in both places. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest EDBSO Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 I Think that I can dry up your N* even if it is the half block leaking.First figure out where the leak is.Drain the oil.Clean the leaking area with lots of brake cleaner.Remove oil cap and put the sucking end of a vacuum cleaner hose in he opening.Seal the leaking area with high temperature silicone.The vacuum will draw the silicone in.Let it cure and usually the leak is stopped. If not stopped it is greatly reduced.Good luck, I have a 2001 Eldorado and live in constant fear of the N*.Now all the oil that goes by the rings and valve seals, not a chance similarly all the coolant that goes through the head gaskets you are on your own. :-(( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 I believe that is the most unconventional method of repairing a transmission leak that I have ever heard of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest EDBSO Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 The N* has two half blocks that bolt together and leak. Rather than paying $2,000 to have it resealed this usually works. Chas1 was complaining about it being wet under a N*.I assumed it would be a combination of oil and tranny leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest weewilly Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie1 Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 (edited) ZZZ Edited August 2, 2009 by CHAS1 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest EDBSO Posted December 15, 2007 Share Posted December 15, 2007 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CHAS1</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Costs was $50.00.</div></div>No cost was over $2,000 you paid $50.00 Way to go!!!!You are now returned to your regular programming... ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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