1931sa brake adjustment

[Guest 1931sa]

Can anyone describe the correct brake shoe adjustment procedure for a 1931sa?

Thanks, Lynn

[Roger1931]

there are two hex head nuts on the backing near the top of the plate these are adjusting cams ,raise the car so that you can spin the wheels ;there is a small viewing port at the outside of the backing so that you can see the lining , turn each nut so that the lining touches the brake drum (while the wheel is spinning)then back the cam off so that the lining just clears, you have to adjust each nut this way

[keiser31]

Don't mess with the lower anchor bolts. Dodge Brothers DH6 and Chrysler CM6 are the same as DeSoto SA6. Always adjust first, then bleed. Try this...

[Guest martylum]

Hi Lynn-I'm the owner of a 1930 Desoto which has exactly the same brakes as your car. You do not state whether you are installing new lined shoes but if you are you will need to adjust the 2 eccentric bolts labeled #10 as these bolts control the clearance tween the lining and the drum on the fixed end of the lining. First, loosen the nuts on the #10 eccentric adjusters on the backside of the backing plate Then adjust the lings per the instructions. This adjustment (should) be done with the brake drum off and the use of a special measuring tool which you won't have. The solution to this problem is to cut screwdriver slots in the back of the eccentric nut on the backside of the backing plate so you do the adjustment using a screwdriver from the outside while the drum is installed.I used a 3" hispeed cutting tool to cut the slots.This end of the lining should be adjusted so the lining just brushes against the drum when you spin the wheel. (Did I mention you should have the drums checked for true roundness before you start this procedure?)After finishing this adjustment, tighten the nuts on the back side of the backing plate, then adjust the top eccentric bolts (#5) to minimize the travel of this loose end of the shoe when the wheel cylinder is actuated.

I've done this with both my 30 and 55 Desotos to enable me to have fairly precise adjustments without the special measuring tool. The 30 stops just about as well as the 55.

Martin Lum

[Mark Sutton]

Hey Lynn I have a 1931 Chrysler CM6 with the same brakes and making them externally adjustable is well worth the work. I welded a piece of 3/8" hex bar to the bolt and can get a wrench on them. This is much more work than cutting screw driver slots but I didn't have a grinder handy. You may also want to have the wheel cylinders sleeved with brass which will last much longer before it leaks. I use White Post Restorations shop for this. One other thing I spray glued the inside of my drums and lined them with #80 grit sand paper. Then spun the drums to fit the new shoes to my drums. To do this you can put the rear end on stands and idle the car in gear while adjusting the shoes to just make contact. For the front I turned them by hand until my arms gave out. You can mark the shoes with a soap stone to see your progress. When the shoes match the drums you will have much better performance. It helps if you really enjoy restoring old cars.

Has anyone ever seen the tool that was used for this?

Do any of you know where to get new drums?

Mark Sutton

[keiser31]

I have never been able to find new drums for my '31 DH6, but that doesn't mean they aren't out there. I never have actually looked for those since I got the internet. Some guys in the "WPC Club" might cough some up.

[Guest 1931sa]

Thank you guys! Sounds easy enough and i'll give it a try.